ITRCA

PM me your email address and i can send you info on the car + pictures.

do you want another black ITR or parts to repair your current ITR? i have a 2000 FBP ITR for sale. PM me your email address and i will send pictures + info.

lookin sexy as hell.

usually security devices such as an alarm, autolock, or the club reduce insurance, but only by a little bit. IMHO, i would get a beater car and have that be the primary driver. then have the R be a secondary car and you'll save huge. there are some posts on HT about some crazy savings.

It's been dyno proven on ht that the hondata yields higher hp than uberdata. Plus hondata was here first, uberdata just used what hondata already has. is it that much higher? i figure hondata would gain a little more hp, but for the cost of uberdata, it's a good started. esp with getting some good ...

enjoy your car man!! i remember when i first saw my friend's R, drove it a couple years later, and then finally got on a year or two later. absolutely love it, but paranoid as hell that it'll get stolen. keep her safe, learn to drive, and switch back to the ambers (look a whole bunch better IMO). :w...

<-------- every 30k here. it's cheap to replace so might as well.

PSI_24 wrote: picked up my cat and it was hollow....

you sure you didn't pick up a test pipe? if not, that's hella weird.

ITR41 wrote:I would rather have a true hondata over the uberdata just for peace of mind

why? you'd be getting just as many functions as the hondata. maybe not for boost, but for other applications. also, you gain about the same amount of hp with tuning. or is it a bling thing to have hondata nowadays?

No I haven't. Sounds like a Hondata knock off (which I knew was just bound to happen) How much does this Uberdata cost? well, you need to buy a obd2-obd1 harness and the uberdata is about 20-40. it basically is a hondata knockoff, but the thing is you can burn any map on the chip and change as nece...

does anyone have any experience tuning their R's with uberdata? i asked a friend of mine in the area about hondata tuning and he mentioned a guy i met last week and how he is the major dealer/tuner of hondata in this area. anyway, he told me about uberdata and how it's basically and reprogrammable c...

just get the gsr and maybe upgrade later. even now, a gsr would be not as practical for you considering the theft of these damn integras.

i've never heard a R without a cat and just testpipe, but i assume that it will be louder and what you are explaining is it just being louder. if you're sure there are no leaks and the header + cat is installed properly, don't worry. you should just get yourself a cat to save the environment. :wink:

40calpal wrote: Was u'r 01 a canadian spec? i think they may have come optional

i'm 100% sure that the 00' and 01' USDM ITR's came with ac standard. i'm only like 50% sure for 98's coming with ac standard.

edit: now i know that this is about the mugen intake.

i really don't understand what you are saying, but the 97 R's did not come with AC and only as an option. i'm pretty sure that 98, 00, and 01 the AC was standard.

what are the different functions compared to the VAFC I?

there is nothing wrong with domestics and you just brought back a post that is almost a year old.

well i saw george's farewell to h-t and id like to see his reply :P car has 28k miles and i was wrong about 220 on all it was 220 225 220 220 well, i understand you wanting George's reply then. anyway, with your numbers, you're looking at a good motor. as long as there aren't big differences betwee...

i don't see why you would post the exact same thread on here when you did on HT last night and got your answers. :roll: don't worry about the compression being the same in all cylinders because that's a positive thing. make sure to check over the inspection report because 220 all across the board is...

if you plan to road race or auto-x, the R is a very good choice and i would probably pick the R over the ls. regardless, you need to look at what area you live in and if the R could be kept safe. if you daily drive to school, the R will NOT be a good choice. anyway, hope you make your mind up and go...

Opps I was thinking about my radio which is not stock... :P That link is just right :D i did the antenna switch this weekend and didn't realize i was using directions with the stock cd player so i spliced into the yellow with green stripe behind the dash and it didn't do anything!! i felt stupid an...

i see no point in doing a high speed run reaching high speeds above 130. i have taken my R up to 125 and back off. i don't want to imagine what could happen at those speeds.

most factory alarms don't have shock sensors or whatever so smashing the windows would not trigger the alarm. usually, just opening the doors will make the alarm to go off. the 00 and 01 R's did have an immobilizer though.

Losing a quart of oil every 3,000 miles is normal. Our motors burn oil and that's a fact. However, I use Castrol GTX 5W-30 without any problems. :thumbup: :thumbup:

i would say that all you need is a decent alarm with a back up battery, ignition kill, and fuel kill. everything else should just be layered security features. i mean, if someone really wants your car, they'll just steal it.