Post your brake fluid,rotor,pad combo...

[CivicBeater]

I guess I forgot Erik isn't a true "elite" R owner.

[tartje]

So to run Legend rotors you simply need the Legend caliper bracket? And obviously the thicker rotors.

I might do this if so.

[Willard]

Willard, without the heat shields did you melt the ft abs sensors?

I did not melt them... but they do get hot. The silver-insulation tape was just a precautionary measure.

[Dave_B]

So to run Legend rotors you simply need the Legend caliper bracket? And obviously the thicker rotors.

I might do this if so.

To run the Legend rotors, you simply need the legend rotors, nothing more. IIRC the years are 94-95 sedan.

[cheezthis]

Legend rotors cleared the ITR 23T bracket? You usually need the Legend bracket, possibly a washer to push the bracket out a tad, and so on.

[get RIGHT]

I am currently using the Legend rotors with stock ITR calipers. No probs.

[cheezthis]

Not the calipers, but the caliper bracket too? Wow, that must be really close, but interesting. I always used the larger 28T bracket. New info to me

[tartje]

Not the calipers, but the caliper bracket too? Wow, that must be really close, but interesting. I always used the larger 28T bracket. New info to me

I always thought the calipers AND brackets were necessary.

If I can get away with just getting Legend 28T rotors and not even needing to fiddle other stuff I'll be on that like white on rice.

[Dave_B]

No other changes here too. Stock brakes, calipers, brackets and Legend rotors. Those rotors also work with the Spoon clappers too.

[cheezthis]

So, with regards to brakes...

On the GSR, for years I used the old GT Sports, Hawk HP +, Ultimates, etc. in the rear. Up front, NSX caliper with Cobalt Spec VRs and some Spec Bs as well. I loved them both.

I don't have much life left on those front pads anymore (maybe a day on each set). Any ideas on what to replace them with? XR2 or XR3? How are the Carbotechs nowadays? XP8 maybe?

I'm looking for something similar to VR, not overpriced, and something that's safe for wheels.

[stinkycheezmonky]

What tires are you gonna be rolling on?

Beyond Cobalt's offerings (which have gotten expensive; figure $180 or so for a front set of XR2s or 3s), Raybestos apparently has a pad a lot of racers are using that is much cheaper, but still very effective. The ST43 I think? Was on sale somewhere recently for $125 or so. Dave O. knows the details better than I do. Edit: Raceshopper.com

I also am not a fan of Carbotechs. They're better than street pads, but are really way too finicky for me.

[Shoey]

What's the advantage of using legend rotors vs. ITR rotors? I looked up the outside diameters and they seemed to be almost identical.

[Doespike]

Could you elaborate on "finicky?" I've actually been hearing good things about Carbotechs and am looking towards them for my next pad. They dust, but are not harmful to the paint of wheels or kaa. Seen their dust first hand on Jim's caR this weekend.

[cheezthis]

Legend rotors are thicker and handle the heat a bit better...but that's about it.
...
Adam...tires...good question. That depends on my wallet. It will be Azenis or something similar/better such as a mild r-comp (ra1 possibly).
Dave O. knows how I used to brake with my old setup, which was very late and aggressive. I still am like that but have since smoother all inputs out. I'm trying to be easier on the car and yet, seem to be the same speed if not faster. So, I'll still need an aggressive pad to do it or else I'll run off the track, ha. (almost happened at the end of the long straight on the south course last fall, whoops).

[stinkycheezmonky]

In my experience with using them on 3-4 cars:
-Bedding procedure is SUPER important. If this is done wrong, everything sucks
-Pad "feel" left a lot to be desired, and was too progressive for me; I had to REALLY stand on the pedal to get decent bite, and had a number of times when it "felt" like the car wouldn't slow down enough. It did, but the feel was crummy.
-Pad wear was kind of high, and in some cases outrageously so (1 weekend and almost down to the backing plates). Apparently they have "good and bad batches". I've read elsewhere that this also leads to inconsistency in performance even among the same compound, but never experienced it personally.

The pad bedding and wear were the big things that bothered me. The bedding especially, if it was wrong (and I would do it "right" according to every other pad I've used) created HUGE shuddering and relatively poor overall braking performance. After they were broken in a bit more it got a lot better, but I wasted a few sessions getting them right. Tried sanding the pads at one point too, and rebedding, which helped marginally.

I know there are people who like them/ride the company nuts, but I have not had the same experience. Their customer service isn't bad, and they've been helpful when we had problems, but the product just isn't very good IMO.




Jay, I think the XR2s might be a bit much for Azenis. They certainly are on my car, but mine is lighter than yours (or most of the other ITRs). Sander also had some issues using them with street tires I think. The XR3s are a lot easier to modulate with streets or beat R-comps. I have no idea how the Raybestos compare, unfortunately. (EDIT: SHIT. Got a quote back from Raceshoppers, ST41 is the only available compound, and it is $230!!!)

If you get some fresher RA1s, the XR2s will be fine and good at your weight and driving style.

[elambz]

I'm running Cobalt CSRs in the front, and GT Sports in the rear, with blank rotors all around. ATE Superblue fluid, and SW388s and RE-11s.

[Willard]

There are 2 different legend rotors.

-the one that is like the OEM ITR unit (if you ask for an ITR unit the price is greater)... it is the same unit (part number/etc.) as far as I know.
-the one that is thicker (same dia/bolt patter) than the OEM ITR unit (will need a different bracket)

[Willard]

What's the advantage of using legend rotors vs. ITR rotors?

more mass... aka: greater ability to store/absorb thermal energy.

[turbohf]

on the Autozone rotors. which ones you guys using?? on there website they list a Duralast and a Duralast Gold rotor?
i can get rotors from our aftermarket brake place (Olympic Brake) for cheap. like 40bucks for "premium" (Centric) and 22 bucks for plain white box. think they are the same shits?

also i wanna replace my pads. for several reasons. dont care for how they perform when cold, and they dust like a mofo and stain my wheels. not tying to be a bitch or anything, i just dont feel like getting on my hands and knees twice a week to scrub off dust. i have OEM rears and they pretty much just wipe off. so i was thinking of just swapping to a OEM front also. but i kinda make a lot more power now, dont wanna be over taxing my brakes trying to get back down to reasonable speeds before i get seen by the people looking for that lol

so like HPS or OEM?

[elambz]

I run the white box rotors myself, and for you I'd say go with OEM pads.

[coolhandluke]

Any plans to track the car?

[turbohf]

not at the moment. its just my daily driver, but i love to drive it hard, and fast lol.

[Doespike]

I just use the regular Duralast 2 yr warranty rotors. Only pads I've used that didn't dust bad were OEM. Though I haven't tried many...mostly Cobalt varieties.

[coolhandluke]

not at the moment. its just my daily driver, but i love to drive it hard, and fast lol.

OEM Honda or Hawk HPS pads will both serve you fine. OEM pads are cheaper.

[turbohf]

i get employee discount and acura so really they are half the price. wait not fair, member PMed me on a set of cheap HPS'. but still.

how well do the OEMs perform on an overpowered R? lol. my R is turbocharged (~300whp). i guess sense i dont plan on tracking it anytime this year i should be fine, and wait till i outgrow then on the track?