Intermittant starting prob and code for cat efficiency
Intermittant starting prob and code for cat efficiency
My son's 2000 ITR cranks but fails to start about 1 of 4 times, more so if cold or wet. When it fails to start there is a heavy gas/exhaust smell. The only code I can read is for catalytic converter efficiency. I do not know if they are related. Any tips on troubleshooting this issue? Not much experience with working on Integra, usually puttering with my Z car. Also, any recommendations for shops in the central Jersey area, just in case it comes to that?
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Re: Intermittant starting prob and code for cat efficiency
Check out:
-Battery
-Main relay
-Possibly replacing the cat.
-Battery
-Main relay
-Possibly replacing the cat.
WTB: ODB1 VTEC Distributor!!!!!!!!!!!
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Re: Intermittant starting prob and code for cat efficiency
Thanks-battery tests fine and engine cranks normally. Which is the "main" relay? Any leads on a direct fit aftermarket cat for the ITR?
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Re: Intermittant starting prob and code for cat efficiency
How many volts is the battery saying?
The main relay is located under the driverside dash. It controls starting, ignition, and fuel pump functions. When you turn the key you should hear the main relay "clicking". If this piece isn't working properly it can affect whether or not the fuel pump is priming, the car is actually cranking, or if the car will start. The OEM Honda unit is about $83 IIRC. A third party unit (not recommended for long-term...trust me) is about $40 from Autozone. It may be worth buying one at Autozone to test, since they are easy to swap, and if it works...you found the problem. If it doesn't, you can return the piece. I highly recommend an OEM unit over an autoparts store unit. I had a bad experience with an auto parts unit.
An OEM cat will cost around $500 from the dealer. A third party solution from SMSP, Carsound, etc., all offer bolt-in solutions. I have heard mixed reviews from Car Sound in terms of durability. A quality cat from SMSP would be pricey, but like an OEM unit, you can count on it's quality and durability. Another option would be to check out a local exhaust shop BUT, I would stress the importance of the exhaust shop make a bolt-in unit. It will be more expensive, but the last thing you want is a welded in piece.
The main relay is located under the driverside dash. It controls starting, ignition, and fuel pump functions. When you turn the key you should hear the main relay "clicking". If this piece isn't working properly it can affect whether or not the fuel pump is priming, the car is actually cranking, or if the car will start. The OEM Honda unit is about $83 IIRC. A third party unit (not recommended for long-term...trust me) is about $40 from Autozone. It may be worth buying one at Autozone to test, since they are easy to swap, and if it works...you found the problem. If it doesn't, you can return the piece. I highly recommend an OEM unit over an autoparts store unit. I had a bad experience with an auto parts unit.
An OEM cat will cost around $500 from the dealer. A third party solution from SMSP, Carsound, etc., all offer bolt-in solutions. I have heard mixed reviews from Car Sound in terms of durability. A quality cat from SMSP would be pricey, but like an OEM unit, you can count on it's quality and durability. Another option would be to check out a local exhaust shop BUT, I would stress the importance of the exhaust shop make a bolt-in unit. It will be more expensive, but the last thing you want is a welded in piece.
WTB: ODB1 VTEC Distributor!!!!!!!!!!!
2011 ITR Expo Calendar
http://www.itrca.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=12472
2011 ITR Expo Calendar
http://www.itrca.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=12472
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Re: Intermittant starting prob and code for cat efficiency
plugged cat will cause difficult starting and even make the car lose power and eventually not want to start. Let us know what you find.
Re: Intermittant starting prob and code for cat efficiency
Do NOT tell them you installed it. Most, if not all electronic parts are not returnable after installation (for obvious reasons)coolhandluke wrote:How many volts is the battery saying?
The main relay is located under the driverside dash. It controls starting, ignition, and fuel pump functions. When you turn the key you should hear the main relay "clicking". If this piece isn't working properly it can affect whether or not the fuel pump is priming, the car is actually cranking, or if the car will start. The OEM Honda unit is about $83 IIRC. A third party unit (not recommended for long-term...trust me) is about $40 from Autozone. It may be worth buying one at Autozone to test, since they are easy to swap, and if it works...you found the problem. If it doesn't, you can return the piece. I highly recommend an OEM unit over an autoparts store unit. I had a bad experience with an auto parts unit.
So if you end up going that route, AND it solves your problem take it back and advise it was the wrong one and didn't fit.
Re: Intermittant starting prob and code for cat efficiency
Thanks for the advice. I will get the car tomorrow and start looking at those issues.
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Re: Intermittant starting prob and code for cat efficiency
Main Relay is unlikely because of the fuel smell, it seems like it's pumping gas, so the main relay should be fine.coolhandluke wrote:Check out:
-Battery
-Main relay
-Possibly replacing the cat.
Clogged cat can be a problem, but I wouldn't be surprised if there's a high flow or test pipe on the car. As we all know CEL 65 is pretty much meaningless. Both of my DC2s have that code
-Dave
Some DC2s and a pimp Grand Marquis
Some DC2s and a pimp Grand Marquis
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Re: Intermittant starting prob and code for cat efficiency
Good call, I read over the fuel smell. It may be time to check for spark and go from there.
WTB: ODB1 VTEC Distributor!!!!!!!!!!!
2011 ITR Expo Calendar
http://www.itrca.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=12472
2011 ITR Expo Calendar
http://www.itrca.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=12472
Re: Intermittant starting prob and code for cat efficiency
The starting problem is only if the engine is cold for a few hours. When there is a starting failure, retrying in 10-15 minutes will usually work fine, and once it starts it is rough for a couple of minutes as the fuel smell clears, then runs fine. Warm starts seem not to be a problem. I hope to get to look at it by the weekend. Just looking for where to start. Thanks.