Valve Adjustment ?

[TypeR 801]

Okay, I thought I was smart enough to do it, but apparantly I'm not lol.

I installed my 00+ ITR intake cam in place of my original 98 ITR intake cam. Put everything back together, adjusted the valves and *thought* everything was back the way it was supposed to be.

Well...the valves are clattering more than they should. First dumb question: does that mean they're lose or tight? Second dumb question: Does anyone have any tips for a not-so-good valve adjuster (me)?

Apparantly I did something wrong, so I need to readjust but need to do it right this time. I'm not into doing it three times Any advice is welcomed!!

btw-I've got the snap-on tool and the bent feeler gauge already, and followed the directions in the Helm's. I'm guessing I need to get the valves a little tighter, but want to make sure.

[hondafanatic]

ok you want to feel a little drag on the feeler guage as you slide it in and out constantly as you tighten it.

Basically you will wiggle it in and out between the rocker and the cam over and over again until you start to feel a little drag. You dont want so much drag that it hangs up, but just enough that there is some resistance when moving it in and out.

Then while adjusting it keep the feeler moving in there. To make sure you dont move it while locking it down.

Let me know if this is helpful or not.

[BudMan]

Can I assume this is your first valve job? Make sure you are looking at the correct measurement on the feeler guage. Use the millimeter (mm) measurement, not the inch (in) measurement, or you will have a much larger gap than necessary. Some feeler guages will have enough in them to use the wrong one for intake and exhaust...I've seen some smart people accidentally use the wrong guage.

It won't cause damage, just some REALLY loud valves

[TypeR 801]

Ok, got it! I'll just have to be a little more careful when using the measuring and tightening down the caps to make sure I've gapped correctly and they haven't changed after tightening. Thanks for the feedback!

[hondafanatic]

you can double check with a "go - nogo" test

basically just pick the next thicker feeler and try to get it in there after you adjust it. if it fits in, bad. readjust. After you pass that test try the next thinner from the correct setting. if it wont fit your too tight, try again. then repeat the other test. Do this until you pass both tests with out any adjustments. Always adjust with the correct feeler guage and check with the next thicker or smaller feelers. DO NOT adjust with the "go-nogo" feelers it will be wrong. Its easy to not swich back to the other feeler between checking and adjusting.

I know you already solved it, but someone may find this useful.

[Dev]

Anybody have any idea what the torque settings on the valve cover nuts are? *nuts*

dev

[hondafanatic]

9.8nm or 7.9ft lbs

not very tight, i sheared a few off in a prelude of mine using the wrong torque wrench, be careful.

there is a pattern to tighten them in too.

and if you wanna be extra safe torque them in 2 steps. one at like 50 percent and one at 100 percent torque

[98 CW ITR 322]

The proper way to is tighten all to 3 ft-lb; tighten all to 5 ft-lb; then final torque is to 7.2 ft-lb in this sequence: #1= center #2=right(timing belt side)rear #3=right front #4=left rear #5=left front #6=right center #7=left center '98 Integra Serv Man.

[BudMan]

using a torque wrench on such a small torque setting is likely to get you a broken stud...do these all by hand - you'll get used to it.

[hondafanatic]

get an inch lb torque wrench. it will work fine.

and where did you get the 3 step torque procedure? this is not in the helms manual.

there is however a pattern. start with the inside 4 and then do the outside 4.

1. driver side farthest back inner nut
2. driver side forward inner nut
3. passenger side farhest back inner nut
4. passenger side forward inner nut

repeat same sequence for the outside 4