Spark Plugs

[dub27]

Hi,

It's time for me to change my spark plugs. Is there a specific model/type that I should look into?

Thanks.

[Airbag]

Try spoon products...if you want to spend.

[Trey]

I use NGK Coppers (and change every 10k-15k miles).

BKR6E-11 is the part #.

You have iridium and platinum options too. Coppers are $2 per. Expect to pay a lot more for the others but see them last a lot longer. I persoanlly don't like Platinums and have not paid for irridiums yet.

[dub27]

Hi,

Thanks for your replies. I heard that the Iridiums are theoretically supposed to produce more power from the engine. Is that true?


Thanks.

[paul98itr]

Yes it is true but more true on highly tuned engines. Not much you would notice, but every bit helps

[dub27]

Thanks.


Is there a reason why there is a difference in price between the NGK Iridium IX and Denso Iridum plugs? (The Densos are more expensive). Is one of them better than the other?


Thanks in advance.

[Aj]

Yes it is true but more true on highly tuned engines. Not much you would notice, but every bit helps

I'm not sure where you heard that, but from all the dyno tests we've done on them, on a lot of the more moded cars, they come up with less HP then most of the stock cars, in fact on some of the cars, we lost HP with the iridium vs. platinum ones. For the price, they are not worth the price at all. Believe it or not the ones that I've had best results with are the regular Bosch platinum plugs, which for a set of four are less then $8 at discount auto.

Copper plugs will make a tad more Hp, maybe, but they have to be changed so much more frequently, it's almost not worth the hassle, though if you're big into projects, and keep up on that stuff, I would recomend copper over iridium any day.

Good luck,
Later!

[itr]

would you just need to tighten the spark plugs to a snug fit or there should be dane a certain way and how would you gap them

[Aj]

Most spark plugs come pre-gapped, though you should always check the gap. Any Discount auto parts ussualy sells those little round disks that you use to gap plugs, which will work fine for checking the gap, to open it up, make sure you use the hole in the disc, and not something else, because you don't want to pry it open using leverage on the diode, otherwise, you may cause it damage, or worse to come off while it's in your motor. To close the gap on a plug, just tap it lightly against a hard flat surface. I really don't remember what stock gap is since I don't run it any more, but I think it's right around 42.

If you want to be more exact about your measurements, you can buy a feeler gauge set, but for most applications, and most people, that would be a little over kill, although if you adjust your own valves, you probably have it any way.

Installing them, I ussualy tighten snugly, and then just give them a little push more, and that ussualy does it, I think the torque spec is like 26 foot lbs, but i'm not really sure, you may want to double check. As I said, just by hand, and make sure it's tight, not a big deal.

Later!

Aj

[bbqman]

Hey Trey, noticed that you substituted the OE PFR 6G-11's for the BKR 6E-11.
Is this because of the mods or is it because it's a cheaper plug that does the job.
Just want to know because earlier Toyotas that asked for OE platinum plugs needed them or else they would foul within 3 months. Later platinums became a high $$$ sale gimmick that i don't buy into.

The BKR 6E-11 would be fine for stock? Then what about BCPR 7E-11 cold plugs for racing and extended high speed....like we used in the old Honda/Michelin series of the 80's?