stock ITR suspension alignment specs
stock ITR suspension alignment specs
I went to a local shop here to do get an alignment and the tech said he couldn't find the specs for the R on his computer. Does anyone know what they are? I'm looking for tolerances for camber, toe, caster, and whatever else you got for my stock suspension'd ITR. Last resort would be for me break out the old string, measuring tape, and broomstick and do it myself.
Sully
01 PY ITR#352 (for the twisties)
AEM CAI, Fluidyne rad, FAL fans, ACT stg2,
JUN flywhl, JDM front /mirrors/steering
whl/airbag tray
01 AUDI S4 stg 2+ (for the Autobahn)
Abt, H&R, Forge BPV, 3"ex, 18" Fondmetal 9x
w/Falken Azenis, 13.5@101mph w/shitty launch
92 TALON Tsi AWD (for 11 sec blasts)
20g, 2g MAS, Apex-i FMIC/S-AFC/AVC-R/N-1
exh/ Aeroquip/Aeromotive fuel sys, Blitz
BOV/Technospeed Z-1...most funds go here
94 ACURA LEGEND (for plush travel)
all stock
01 PY ITR#352 (for the twisties)
AEM CAI, Fluidyne rad, FAL fans, ACT stg2,
JUN flywhl, JDM front /mirrors/steering
whl/airbag tray
01 AUDI S4 stg 2+ (for the Autobahn)
Abt, H&R, Forge BPV, 3"ex, 18" Fondmetal 9x
w/Falken Azenis, 13.5@101mph w/shitty launch
92 TALON Tsi AWD (for 11 sec blasts)
20g, 2g MAS, Apex-i FMIC/S-AFC/AVC-R/N-1
exh/ Aeroquip/Aeromotive fuel sys, Blitz
BOV/Technospeed Z-1...most funds go here
94 ACURA LEGEND (for plush travel)
all stock
Re: stock ITR suspension alignment specs
For autocrossing and general use , I have found that 1/16 total toe out in front with zero toe rear gives the car a nice feel.
Anything more or less is a compromise between tire wear and grip.
Camber is not adjustable without aftermarket adjusters and then again depends on the track and the compromise...more camber= less braking etc.
Anything more or less is a compromise between tire wear and grip.
Camber is not adjustable without aftermarket adjusters and then again depends on the track and the compromise...more camber= less braking etc.
Re: stock ITR suspension alignment specs
Here's the alignment specs....
These are the stock recommendations from the factory.
I recommend slight toe out (1/16" total toe out) in front and zero toe in rear. These settings are good for the track, autox and fine for the street. Any more than 1/8" total toe out in front will cause some ridiculously fast tire wear.
FRONT
Camber --> Specified Range -1.5 deg. to 0.5 deg.
Caster --> Specified Range 0.2 deg. to 2.2 deg.
Toe --> Specified Range -0.08 deg. to 0.08 deg.
Total Toe --> Specified Range -0.16 deg. to 0.16 deg.
REAR
Camber --> Specified Range -2.0 deg. to 0.0 deg.
Toe --> Specified Range 0.04 deg. to 0.16 deg.
Total Toe --> Specified Range 0.08 deg. to 0.32 deg.
These are the stock recommendations from the factory.
I recommend slight toe out (1/16" total toe out) in front and zero toe in rear. These settings are good for the track, autox and fine for the street. Any more than 1/8" total toe out in front will cause some ridiculously fast tire wear.
FRONT
Camber --> Specified Range -1.5 deg. to 0.5 deg.
Caster --> Specified Range 0.2 deg. to 2.2 deg.
Toe --> Specified Range -0.08 deg. to 0.08 deg.
Total Toe --> Specified Range -0.16 deg. to 0.16 deg.
REAR
Camber --> Specified Range -2.0 deg. to 0.0 deg.
Toe --> Specified Range 0.04 deg. to 0.16 deg.
Total Toe --> Specified Range 0.08 deg. to 0.32 deg.
More info:
Wider wheels help with turn in, similar to toe out. So, my combination of 15x6 rims with 1/8" total toe out was good. But my 15x7 wheels with 1/8" total toe out was MUCH better. My falkens were not as squirmy, as the wider rim was using them much more effectively. Add to this combination a 350mm steering wheel, and wow. Even more crisp turn in.
I wouldnt' go more than 1/8" total out, I recall us talking about 1/4" out a while back, but if it doesn't make a noticeable difference, it probably is only eating tires faster.
As far as toe out in rear, that could be dangerous around town. The trailing arm bushing is made to 'flex' under turn in... so if your alignment spec on the rack is zero toe in rear, when you turn in to a left hander, your left rear toe will actually be 0.04" out, slightly less than 1/16" out on that side, or approximately 1/12" total toe out. Same goes for turning to the right, you'd have 0.04" out on that side. Toe in in rear promotes less oversteer, while as you get progressively less toe in (or more toe out once you pass zero toe), oversteer is much easier to create.
Wider wheels help with turn in, similar to toe out. So, my combination of 15x6 rims with 1/8" total toe out was good. But my 15x7 wheels with 1/8" total toe out was MUCH better. My falkens were not as squirmy, as the wider rim was using them much more effectively. Add to this combination a 350mm steering wheel, and wow. Even more crisp turn in.
I wouldnt' go more than 1/8" total out, I recall us talking about 1/4" out a while back, but if it doesn't make a noticeable difference, it probably is only eating tires faster.
As far as toe out in rear, that could be dangerous around town. The trailing arm bushing is made to 'flex' under turn in... so if your alignment spec on the rack is zero toe in rear, when you turn in to a left hander, your left rear toe will actually be 0.04" out, slightly less than 1/16" out on that side, or approximately 1/12" total toe out. Same goes for turning to the right, you'd have 0.04" out on that side. Toe in in rear promotes less oversteer, while as you get progressively less toe in (or more toe out once you pass zero toe), oversteer is much easier to create.