oil
oil
What type and grade of oil do you use? I use Royal Purple 5W30, I was thinking of going to 10W30, will the 10/30 harm or do anything to my motor and will my car run the same? I only drive my R in the summer.
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Oil
The acura manual reccomends changing the oil every 7500 i believe, and because these are pretty high performance cars ive always used synthetic 10w/30 usually Mobil One. Does anyone have this problem, burning alot of oil when hitting VTEC (5700) or just when driving hard, i have to replace about a quart a month. Please respond with help. I was thinking of getting a new head gaskit and a 5 quart oil pan.
I have a 2000 ITR, 11.0 Endyn rolloerwave pistons, Mugen Sport exhaust, Mugen headers, Mugen thermostat, Mugen Valve spring, Mugen titanium retainers, lower rear tie bar, cam gears, new injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, Clutch and a carbon fiber hood, etc.
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There are a hell of a lot of B series users who claim that Mobile One just burns, and that's all there is to it.
I wish I had something more useful to contribute to your problem.
The fact that so many people say it burns, and Ichisima's recommendation that expensive oil is a waste of money is what kept me using dino oil all this time.
I wish I had something more useful to contribute to your problem.
The fact that so many people say it burns, and Ichisima's recommendation that expensive oil is a waste of money is what kept me using dino oil all this time.
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Oil
Oh you misunderstand me, because my car burns a quart a month i repeatedly put oil in it.
I have a 2000 ITR, 11.0 Endyn rolloerwave pistons, Mugen Sport exhaust, Mugen headers, Mugen thermostat, Mugen Valve spring, Mugen titanium retainers, lower rear tie bar, cam gears, new injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, Clutch and a carbon fiber hood, etc.
Re: oil
I use 5W30 Mobil 1.Johnny T wrote:What type and grade of oil do you use? I use Royal Purple 5W30, I was thinking of going to 10W30, will the 10/30 harm or do anything to my motor and will my car run the same? I only drive my R in the summer.
According to the ITR owner's manual, you can use 10W30 as long as the temperature is over 20 degrees F. But it says that 5W30 is still preferred at ALL temperatures.Johnny T wrote:I was thinking of going to 10W30, will the 10/30 harm or do anything to my motor and will my car run the same? I only drive my R in the summer.
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I've used mobil 1 in my 92 integra and it even burned in the b18a1 motor. I run it now with Quaker State regular and I don't lose a drop. My R loses at leastg a quart or two of Royal Purps between oil changes. I don't mind adding it because the oil does really make a difference and my compression is just fine(111,000km) Why be cheap on oil?, a good filter doesn't hurt either(oem,hamp,Knn)
is there a recommended mileage for switching from 5W30 to 10W30? I'm not positive, but i though i read a while back that after like 50k or 70k miles u want to switch over to a 10weight. although this may not have even pertained to the Type R's. hell it coulda even been talking about minivans.
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Re: Oil
Uhmm... no. Every 3,000 miles for normal driving, every 2,500 for rough driving. There are other service intervals, which are every 7,500 miles. But damn... I sure hope yer changing your oil more often then that.TypeRTuner2000 wrote:The acura manual reccomends changing the oil every 7500 i believe
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Why's it great?PSI_24 wrote:royal purple...... synthetic racing 21 formula
its great........
Amsoil is the best you can get basically and it's what I put in my ITR.
Mobil 1 is also a great synthetic but as mentioned, there are issues with some people burning it off.
Dino? Hey, the dino is great stuff too...change it every 3k and I think you'll be fine. I just can't do that....call me super anal....I don't know why....I got 246k on my beater, a 91 Accord and it's seen Valvoline dino it's whole life...it runs like a dream and when I had the valve cover off, there was no sludge or wear...unbelieveable....changed every 3k by the original owner and every 2500 since I got it with 242k on it.
Nothing wrong with dino...it's great stuff too!
One thing i do know is oil.
Most any oil you use will be just fine as long as its a FULL synthetic and you change it at least every 4K miles (in an ITR). Ok now the weight. On a 5w-30 oil, the 5w is explaned by how easly the oil flows at cold temp or the leak down rate. This makes 5w oil better in very cold start vehicles, very cold, I mean alaska cold. 10w is great also it just can't flow as well at very cold temps. You really only see a differrence at about 10 deg. F. Now for the 30. This is basicaly how thick the oil trys to become, or actually trys to stay, after the car is warmed up. The choice in weight also depends on the car. newer cars have tighter bearing, valve seel and piston to wall clearances. Anyways most hondas are going to work best with 5w or 10w 30. Oh ya the best oil is RED LINE full synthetic
Most any oil you use will be just fine as long as its a FULL synthetic and you change it at least every 4K miles (in an ITR). Ok now the weight. On a 5w-30 oil, the 5w is explaned by how easly the oil flows at cold temp or the leak down rate. This makes 5w oil better in very cold start vehicles, very cold, I mean alaska cold. 10w is great also it just can't flow as well at very cold temps. You really only see a differrence at about 10 deg. F. Now for the 30. This is basicaly how thick the oil trys to become, or actually trys to stay, after the car is warmed up. The choice in weight also depends on the car. newer cars have tighter bearing, valve seel and piston to wall clearances. Anyways most hondas are going to work best with 5w or 10w 30. Oh ya the best oil is RED LINE full synthetic
#517 98 ITR and #? 97 ITR
After 3 muscle cars and one fast ass grand national I reallized........real racing has turns!
After 3 muscle cars and one fast ass grand national I reallized........real racing has turns!
Re: Oil
TypeRTuner2000 wrote:The acura manual reccomends changing the oil every 7500 i believe
TypeRTuner2000 has read his owner's manual. mythias has not. What mythias claims the owner's manual says is not true. The '97 manual says 7500 miles / 6 months for normal conditions, and "more frequently" (no interval specified) for severe conditions. The '98 manual says 7500 miles / 6 months for normal conditions, 3750 miles / 6 months for severe conditions. The '01 manual says 7500 miles / 1 year for normal conditions, 7500 miles / 6 months for severe conditions.mythias wrote:Uhmm... no. Every 3,000 miles for normal driving, every 2,500 for rough driving. There are other service intervals, which are every 7,500 miles. But damn... I sure hope yer changing your oil more often then that.
You can change your oil more often than the owner's manual recommends, if you like. But there is no arguing what it says in the owner's manual. It's right there in black and white, and you can look it up yourself - which you might want to consider doing before posting about it.
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Really? Got any info to back that up? Or are you just saying that because you use it?mark wrote: Oh ya the best oil is RED LINE full synthetic
I've never seen one test where Redline has outperformed Amsoil.
Another issue with Redline that I've seen in lab testing is the erratic differences in one batch of oil compared to the next. Amsoil and Mobil 1 have been known for their consistency in those same tests.
We can argue all we want about oils til the sun goes down, lab tests are the only thing that can really "prove" anything....and Amsoil outperforms Redline in those hands down.
And regardless of what the tests say, you can still argue till the sun goes down about whether those performance differences are worth paying for - such as the higher cost of Amsoil or Redline vs the $4/quart that Mobil 1 costs at Sam's and Costco. (Just like some feel that it is not worth paying for the higher cost of synthetic vs conventional oil.)Justin Klemgold wrote:We can argue all we want about oils til the sun goes down, lab tests are the only thing that can really "prove" anything....and Amsoil outperforms Redline in those hands down.
I use Mobil 1, FWIW.
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Agreed, but cost and performance are two different things in my opinion. The cost of an oil does not mean it will perform well...case in point, Castrol Syntec....not really a synthetic oil, has synthetic oil costs.nsxtasy wrote: And regardless of what the tests say, you can still argue till the sun goes down about whether those performance differences are worth paying for - such as the higher cost of Amsoil or Redline vs the $4/quart that Mobil 1 costs at Sam's and Costco. (Just like some feel that it is not worth paying for the higher cost of synthetic vs conventional oil.)
I use Mobil 1, FWIW.
And by the way, I get my Amsoil for 4.55 a quart.
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Its allways going to be prefference. Like i said most any oil will be fine usually as long as its a full syn. However i like redline because I believe it's the best from my own expierence. besides Real Time Racing uses it in thier champianship winning ITRs and you can't argue with that.
#517 98 ITR and #? 97 ITR
After 3 muscle cars and one fast ass grand national I reallized........real racing has turns!
After 3 muscle cars and one fast ass grand national I reallized........real racing has turns!
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That is totally different. Those engines are torn down after each race. Longevity is hardly a factor to those engines like ours.mark wrote:Its allways going to be prefference. Like i said most any oil will be fine usually as long as its a full syn. However i like redline because I believe it's the best from my own expierence. besides Real Time Racing uses it in thier champianship winning ITRs and you can't argue with that.