this seemed very interesting to me since ive never really heard of anyone doing this before and i was wondering what you guys think about it?
like i said, im new to the all motor world, so if i ask something redundant or stupid, just let me know.
in my quest for more power i stumbled across this...
in my quest for more power i stumbled across this...
it was a Crower stroker kit. crank, rods, pistons, cams, and cam gears. it would turn a 1.8 into a 2.1
this seemed very interesting to me since ive never really heard of anyone doing this before and i was wondering what you guys think about it?
like i said, im new to the all motor world, so if i ask something redundant or stupid, just let me know.
this seemed very interesting to me since ive never really heard of anyone doing this before and i was wondering what you guys think about it?
like i said, im new to the all motor world, so if i ask something redundant or stupid, just let me know.
It is an option. A lot of guys looking for more displacement use a B20 (2.0 liter) block. Not sure I would choose crower for all of those parts either but somene that has used their stuff should speak for that.
2.1l will give you a lot of Tq over stock.
I would love to try it but using a second motor due to possible reliability issues.
2.1l will give you a lot of Tq over stock.
I would love to try it but using a second motor due to possible reliability issues.
Actually, I strongly disagree, there is an inherant problem with strocking a motor, and you'll notice that any one who has been in the business for a long time has their block resleaved, and goes with a larger bore diameter rather then stroking it.paul98itr wrote:I am sure you wont run in to any problems with Crower.
The reasoning is very simple, and if you ask any one in the business that is very knowledgeable, you'll find that they will tell you the same thing.
When you change the rod/stroke ratio of a motor the pistons, rather then having a very linear up and down motion to them, they tend to like to push a little against the side walls of the cylinder, causing premature ware. Imagine your pistons now going almost a perfect 90 degrees with your rods, where after you stroke it, they'll be at like 88.5 degrees, so the pistons rub to one side or another, depending on the up stroke or down stroke, a little more then they should. It almost acts like a cycle, the more it happens, the worse it tends to get, if properly installed, it may last the life of your car, if not, it may need to be rebuilt after a couple years. It's a bad example of a lorenz attractor in non linear dynamics if anyone is interested is chaos.
Now, I'm not saying it's gonna break in like a couple of months, I know people, who, though we recomended going another route, still had us do stroker kits for them, who years later are still running them, with no piston slap or any other problems. So I guess it's more important that you have someone very reputable install it.
Good luck,
Later.......
If it is a complete stroker kit, which I would imagine it would be, it should come with pistons already. Either way, it wouldn't be hard to have JE or Weisco make you some pistons with a higher than stock wrist pin. Adios.
Kyle
Kyle
"Just because someone agrees with you doesn't make you right. It just means there's someone else out there as stupid as you."
-Nathan Reed
-Nathan Reed
Actually JE or Wiseco would have no problem making a piston with a higher wrist pin height, but you would have a great deal of difficulty figuring out the specification to have it made to.
Yes it is a complete stroker kit, with psitons and all, but never the less the sleeve to crank clearances are very precise, as well as the actual spining rotational clearance in the block, so you shouldn't just start hap-hazardly replacing parts in order to cure a problem, especially one that could be avoided entirely.
Later,
Aj
Yes it is a complete stroker kit, with psitons and all, but never the less the sleeve to crank clearances are very precise, as well as the actual spining rotational clearance in the block, so you shouldn't just start hap-hazardly replacing parts in order to cure a problem, especially one that could be avoided entirely.
Later,
Aj
Regarding JE or another similar company making a custom piston for your specific application, that is exactly the point I was making; that it wouldn't be hard at all for them to make it. Figuring out how high the wrist pin should be set and how long the rod you want is not hard at all, really.
I would imagine finding the total stock height of the piston and rod assmebly measured from a given point would be your first step. Then matching up that with your new, longer rod and higher than stock wrist pin location assembly would be all that is needed. Just a bit of measuring is all that is all that I forsee. Anything else you need measurements for the companies will advise.
Crower's site notes that rod lengths and wrist pin heights can be customized, so there the solution sits, right on their website.
As for running into problems with rod and crank to cylinder wall contact, this is very common when stroking a motor. Crower even makes mention of necessary notching that may be needed. Performance isn't going to be hurt, as the piston will never go down as far as the notch.
I wouldn't be afraid to try it if I were in the market for a stroker kit or bigger size in general. Crower is a reputable company and I doubt they would put a product out for sale if it were "happazardly thrown together."
In case anyone wants to read more about it, http://www.crower.com/cat/import/honda/stroker.shtml is the address.
Regards,
Kyle
I would imagine finding the total stock height of the piston and rod assmebly measured from a given point would be your first step. Then matching up that with your new, longer rod and higher than stock wrist pin location assembly would be all that is needed. Just a bit of measuring is all that is all that I forsee. Anything else you need measurements for the companies will advise.
Crower's site notes that rod lengths and wrist pin heights can be customized, so there the solution sits, right on their website.
As for running into problems with rod and crank to cylinder wall contact, this is very common when stroking a motor. Crower even makes mention of necessary notching that may be needed. Performance isn't going to be hurt, as the piston will never go down as far as the notch.
I wouldn't be afraid to try it if I were in the market for a stroker kit or bigger size in general. Crower is a reputable company and I doubt they would put a product out for sale if it were "happazardly thrown together."
In case anyone wants to read more about it, http://www.crower.com/cat/import/honda/stroker.shtml is the address.
Regards,
Kyle
"Just because someone agrees with you doesn't make you right. It just means there's someone else out there as stupid as you."
-Nathan Reed
-Nathan Reed
I'm not saying it would be impossible, but first off, most people don't have a micrometer in order to measure it, then still, they're not even sure how to accurately measure wrist pin height on a piston, given that it must be done from the center of where the wrist pin must be.
To add more difficualy to the mix, you need a very acurate top dead center finder for the crank in order to actually measure stroke angle in addition to full extension height on the rods with respect to the block.
If you're at a machine shop, it's not something that would take any more then a couple hours at most, but trying to do it in your drive way, just isn't feasible, especially if you don't know anything about building motors in the first place. Which I must say, if you don't, you shouldn't be screwing with it in the first place, but never the less, you need to learn some how.
I agree, Crower is a good company, especially on things like rods and cranks, but once again, it's great if you;re gonna build a purpose built race car, but for a street car and daily driver, it's a lot of work and hassle, that you really just don't need.
Either way, check all your options, if it seems feasible, and you don't mind the down time, then go for it. Just keep in mind, it's not like bolting on an intake, it's some serious work, time, and most of all $$$$$$.
Good luck,
Aj
To add more difficualy to the mix, you need a very acurate top dead center finder for the crank in order to actually measure stroke angle in addition to full extension height on the rods with respect to the block.
If you're at a machine shop, it's not something that would take any more then a couple hours at most, but trying to do it in your drive way, just isn't feasible, especially if you don't know anything about building motors in the first place. Which I must say, if you don't, you shouldn't be screwing with it in the first place, but never the less, you need to learn some how.
I agree, Crower is a good company, especially on things like rods and cranks, but once again, it's great if you;re gonna build a purpose built race car, but for a street car and daily driver, it's a lot of work and hassle, that you really just don't need.
Either way, check all your options, if it seems feasible, and you don't mind the down time, then go for it. Just keep in mind, it's not like bolting on an intake, it's some serious work, time, and most of all $$$$$$.
Good luck,
Aj
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Jan Niemi
- Senior ITRCA Member
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In my quest for power, I stumbled upon
This big fat metallic snail that crawled under my hood and
attached itself to my engine, I think it's name is Turbonetics or something...
attached itself to my engine, I think it's name is Turbonetics or something...