Wheel alignment, Here's mine what about yours?

Bbasso · Post by **Bbasso** » November 11th, 2005, 11:17 am

I spent most of the day yesterday get ... rt :lol:

swtxaznrac3r · Post by **swtxaznrac3r** » November 11th, 2005, 11:27 am

I don't have my chart but I know what specs I run...don't think it helps as its not on an ITR

Bbasso · Post by **Bbasso** » November 11th, 2005, 11:28 am

Uhhh...

swtxaznrac3r · Post by **swtxaznrac3r** » November 11th, 2005, 11:33 am

You still want to see the specs?

Bbasso · Post by **Bbasso** » November 11th, 2005, 12:04 pm

No silly, j00 ain't got an R

rene m · Post by **rene m** » November 11th, 2005, 12:54 pm

So why the toe in on the rear? I thought a dc2 was long enough to set it at 0' ? I tried a few on the rear and liked the 0' more than toe in ( on the rear that is).

Bbasso · Post by **Bbasso** » November 11th, 2005, 12:58 pm

The rear is at zero... Or am I mistaken?

jaa1311 · Post by **jaa1311** » November 11th, 2005, 1:35 pm

looks good, i have about 1/8 toe in the front but zeroed it out in the rear. Can't complain

Dave_B · Post by **Dave_B** » November 12th, 2005, 12:01 am

Bbasso wrote:The rear is at zero... Or am I mistaken?

Looks like it started off not being zero, but then being corrected.

Bbasso · Post by **Bbasso** » November 12th, 2005, 12:04 am

I guess his screen cut of the right side where it says "Final"

rene m · Post by **rene m** » November 12th, 2005, 1:30 am

Yeah, when i printed it it came up as 0'.. Sorry i was wondering.
Whats up with your rear camber? 1.5- 0.8 ???

Bbasso · Post by **Bbasso** » November 12th, 2005, 11:01 am

the guy there could not figure it out... He was stumped last time too.

Maybe I have a bushing that's wearing thin or something is slightly tweaked ??? I dunno.

George Knighton · Post by **George Knighton** » November 24th, 2005, 6:11 pm

I think that your alignment is weighted with information about how much you are concerned about the corners and how much you are concerned with stability at high speed and especially threshold braking from high speed.

At Summit Point, if you get through Turn 10 perfectly, it's very possible you'll be at 140 or more at the moment you go into threshold braking for Turn 1.

Needless to say, the suspension geometry goes all to hell in this kind of situation. As the rear end hikes up, you get toe out and positive camber. Can't be helped.

After years of trying what most of us have decided is that you'd want to be at zero to slightly toe out on the front to enhance turn in.

But you would want to be at slightly toe in on the rear, which will assist with straight line stability especially when under maximum braking.

It's worth dealing with this and thinking about it. You can get a full second/lap just because you're more comfortable with how the car behaves when you've compressed the brake zone to the maximum extent.

There's more you can do to help with this, too.

Heavier springs on the front to keep the nose up under braking (which means even heavier springs in the rear).

Better brake pads on the rear than what you have now.

Dampers adjusted to resist the car coming up so fast.

Chris F · Post by **Chris F** » November 24th, 2005, 7:12 pm

George Knighton wrote:Better brake pads on the rear than what you have now.

Better == Higher coefficient of friction at operating temperature?

I found this to be true, albeit a bit counterintuitive. If you want to spin the car, what do you do.. yank the e-brake, decreasing the amount of lateral grip available in the rear. So I'm not sure I have a real good explanation for it.

p.s. Rob, I don't have a sheet, but I'm 0 toe rear, and still 1/4 total toe out front. I don't know my camber, but I don't have camber plates so I'll live with what I have. Maybe 3 degrees front, 1.5 rear? I suppose I could try measuring it to get a rough idea.

MikeB · Post by **MikeB** » January 19th, 2006, 12:50 am

Front Camber -3.7
Front Toe 0.0

Rear Camber -1.5
Rear Toe 0.0

Dont have my caster specs but I did swap both from UCA's from L to R

RagingAngel · Post by **RagingAngel** » January 20th, 2006, 12:27 am

....I'm a forum wh0re that tries to read everything since it's almost like a form of entertainment for me while I am working abroad....

You might want to consider swapping the upper arms back to their original configuration after reading this here:
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1082319&page=1

MikeB · Post by **MikeB** » January 21st, 2006, 9:45 pm

Interesting to read that. Alot of variables come into play. I will have to go measure the distance of the center bore to the top of the bottom fender.

I know my LCA's are not parallel. My car is pretty low here so Ill check.

One member states that the handling worsened, I felt as if it was a big improvement. I noticed immediately that there was a change, and if I remember correctly, it was in a good way.

Aside from that all, this might also explain why I got abnormal tire wear this past session. HOWEVER, I do have soft suspension which was replaced by the TEIN RE's. *shrugs* Guess I have to do more test and tuning.

rene m · Post by **rene m** » June 2nd, 2006, 1:57 pm

New spec's i set up while using a gps lap system "very nice".

Now my 98 R is stock except:
Skunk 2 UCA's front
ingles UCA rear
23mm rear sway bar
jdm header jdm cat
CTR intake cam.

After changing settings over and over at the track i cam up with
"0" toe both front and rear
" 1.8-" front camber
"2.0-" rear camber
caster is non adjustable so i did not even look.

With this set up i was fighting it out with an Lotus Ex all day and winning in the corners.
just an fyi

ITRCA

Wheel alignment, Here's mine what about yours?

Wheel alignment, Here's mine what about yours?

I'm no expert.....but....