Time for a clutch **Pics Added**

captainzorg · Post by **captainzorg** » February 23rd, 2006, 4:01 pm

Well time has finally come. 114,000 miles and time for a new clutch. The throw out baring is going. I called the local Acura dealer and got a quote for $899 installed and $500 for new synchros. Parts and labor included. I don't think that is bad at all.

I originally wanted to replace the stock clutch with a Spoon or Toda clutch & light flywheel but now I am torn to go back with the stock factory equipment. Either one will run me $960 for the parts.

Any advise??

BudMan · Post by **BudMan** » February 23rd, 2006, 4:34 pm

Clutchmasters stage 3 + Flywheel + PP + new bearings = ~$5-600 & throwout bearing from Acura =$45.

Install it yourself & save = good experience even if it is funny & frustrating...do 5-6 more times & laugh at what a noob you were on the first one.

Unless you are a terrible shifter, I doubt you need new sychros.

captainzorg · Post by **captainzorg** » February 23rd, 2006, 5:29 pm

I get a grind in third at high RPM's. It may be due to clutch on its way out. I was told synchros tend to go in the Integras. I could be wrong. I am not to mechanically inclined.

I will take a look at clutch masters.

naDC2R · Post by **naDC2R** » February 23rd, 2006, 10:25 pm

mine is somtimes a bitch to put into 2nd when drivin hard, and also grinds a bit in 3rd.
New tranny from Acura is $1900Cdn. if my tranny needs to be opened up and get parts replaced, i think it would be better to jus put more $$ and buy the brand new one, with warranty, etc.

Personally i have done a tranny/clutch install on my old 5th gen accord, and it really wasnt that complicated, so im sure doing it on a teg would be very very similar.

KayOs · Post by **KayOs** » February 24th, 2006, 4:50 am

Exedy organic clutch is another clutch you may want to look into if you are deviating from OEM....It's quite affordable....

If you are up for a drive down to NY, contact Dan:

http://www.dan-gsr-motorsports.com/

captainzorg · Post by **captainzorg** » February 25th, 2006, 2:36 pm

I have dragged my feet way too long. The clutch is gone. The car will not go into gear while running. I will have an upgraded clutch and flywheel in a day or so. I think I will end up with the Clutchmasters stage 3. with light flywheel. I am going to attempt the install myself with a little help from a friend of mine. I will keep you posted!

naDC2R · Post by **naDC2R** » February 25th, 2006, 6:46 pm

Good luck, let us know how it goes, post up some pics if u can too!

Bbasso · Post by **Bbasso** » February 26th, 2006, 3:51 am

Do you have the service manual to guide you?
good luck! and yes post some pics as you go along

Especially if there is any FIRE or carnage

SleeperR13 · Post by **SleeperR13** » February 26th, 2006, 4:25 am

Bbasso wrote:Do you have the service manual to guide you?
good luck! and yes post some pics as you go along

Especially if there is any FIRE or carnage

I agree.. You may want to look into getting a Manual to help you out.
I have the Mugen 3puck, I love it, but is it worth the $$$ NOPE. I think you should take the previous advise and stick with the current choice.

Tristan
00-0503

captainzorg · Post by **captainzorg** » March 3rd, 2006, 5:30 pm

Change of plans, I am going with Exedy clutch and flywheel. A Hullava lot cheaper! $300 for everything with shipping. Flywheel is 9.46 lbs. I will post pics of the install process. especially if there is any fire, carnage, or loss of limbs.

As for right now I am forced to drive the winter bomb. A 96 Chevy Blazer with 133K 4X4. I WANT MY R BACK!

captainzorg · Post by **captainzorg** » April 12th, 2006, 10:14 am

Got the clutch installed yesterday. I ended up going with an Exedy clutch and lightened flywheel setup. The car drives much better as you can imagine, but the peddal feel is much lighter than before. It goes in super easy. Also I still have a nasty noise comming from the front end but disappeard when the clutch is pressed down. I thought it was a throw out bearing. The guy told me to drive it and it will go away as the clutch breaks in. Anyone experiance the same thing?

I will post pics in a day or so.

Bbasso · Post by **Bbasso** » April 12th, 2006, 10:20 am

the noise is most likely the bearings inside the tranny.
I went thru the same things a few years back. I replaced the throw out and clutch and it was still there. Shortly after the noise was so bad I took it into the dealer and all the internal bearings were F'ed.

Who ever did the clutch work, did they check for play on the shaft?

captainzorg · Post by **captainzorg** » April 12th, 2006, 10:37 am

I am not sure if the shaft was checked for any play? I'll ask. So the bearings in your tranny were bad? What did that end up costing? It sounds expensive.

Bbasso · Post by **Bbasso** » April 12th, 2006, 10:54 am

Well the dealer faught with me to keep it from being a warranty claim but I demaded that they file it under warranty or I'll go above thier head. So it did not cost me anything that time.

But the dealer sabotaged my tranny. They filled the shaft with Hondabond, but I did not find this out untill I had to fix the syncros they messed up. Not to mention that the shifter forks were not 100% from them either.

So in the end, which has not come yet. I'll have to buy a new transmission.

If there is nothing else wrong with the tranny then DIY and save a bunch of money. Besure to call Len for the parts. I'd be carefull... When a bearing goes it could and in my case does send out debri that can damage other parts inside.

BudMan · Post by **BudMan** » April 12th, 2006, 11:33 am

captainzorg wrote:Also I still have a nasty noise comming from the front end but disappeard when the clutch is pressed down. I thought it was a throw out bearing. The guy told me to drive it and it will go away as the clutch breaks in. Anyone experiance the same thing?

DING DING - Main shaft bearing to your rescue....pull the tranny again.

I know, it sucks! Guess how I know?

captainzorg · Post by **captainzorg** » April 12th, 2006, 1:30 pm

The tech said there was no shaft play. The sound is annoying. what do you guys think of this http://gearspeedinc.com/products.htm I am thinking of Type 3. I think I might spend the money and get it done right. It would be just as expensive to pull out the exhisting one and replace everything.

Bbasso · Post by **Bbasso** » April 12th, 2006, 2:31 pm

I have their carbon coated syncros, good price, good service and the parts work good.

captainzorg · Post by **captainzorg** » April 16th, 2006, 1:07 am

Here are some pics of the new parts. Exedy Clutch & Flywheel.

And The worn out toasted old parts!

I am now experiancing a whole different problem. The shifter has a TON of play in it. The throw is much longer, to the point where I can't get it in 2nd, 4th or reverse because the shifter hits the plastic trim. I think the linkage is F'd up. I have it going in Monday to get it fixed... It is always something...

walker111 · Post by **walker111** » April 18th, 2006, 4:04 pm

Why not look for yourself? Get a helms and go at it!! You just said you think you know the problem, get under there and check the linkage.

Johnny T · Post by **Johnny T** » April 27th, 2006, 10:40 pm

That is pretty much a stock clutch setup which should last a while. good choice. As far as your noisy tranny, your bearings main internal bearings are cooked. Its not going to go away, only worsen. I had mine rebuilt, cost like $700 cdn by a local honda only shop with parts and labour. Happens to ITRs all the time. Looks like more $$.. I know the feeling, just think about VTEC @ 8000, its makes it all worth it!

captainzorg · Post by **captainzorg** » April 29th, 2006, 6:23 pm

it was the shift linkage, all fixed now. I am now debating putting a new tranny in or selling it. I listed it here on ITRCA and in the want ad. I am having a hard time with the thought of parting ways with her... I was thinking of a Nissan 350Z track model but now I am up in the air.

ITRCA

Time for a clutch Pics Added

Time for a clutch Pics Added

Clutch is done BUT....

Re: Clutch is done BUT....