comptech

[hopofthese]

whats up. i bought my type r about 2months ago and it had comptech exhaust, headers, an a ecu. does anybody have any info on this set-up. what i notice is that my car hits and if not comes very close to 9k rpms. is this bad for me to do or is it safe. any of ur information is aprreciated.

[Trey]

That is likely the stock fuel cut settings. THe Tach's on our cars is notoriously off. My car will rev to 9k on the tach when set to 8500 fuel cut.

[Neil]

The Comptech ECU raised the rev limiter slightly. You should be fine. Keep in mind that the comptech parts were designed to NOT void your factory warrenty, so I doubt that any of Comptech parts will hurt your car.
Later

[Aj]

That is likely the stock fuel cut settings. THe Tach's on our cars is notoriously off. My car will rev to 9k on the tach when set to 8500 fuel cut.

Though for a very long time, I was under the same impression, that the stock tach was really off, but it turns out, it's actually the computer has lag, to where it actually takes the needle time to stop swinging and to move to the next rpm. Once I switched to Hondata, the tach is dead on, I'd say less than 100 rpm off.

Either way, the comptech ECU does raise your rev limiter slightly, but I think only to like 8700rpm, nothing too cazy that I think would break anything, so I really wouldn't worry about it, as long as you have a rev limiter, you should be fine. Comptech does enough extensive testing and dyno time, where I'm sure for what you're running, It will be pretty good.

Later,
Aj

[Trey]

That is likely the stock fuel cut settings. THe Tach's on our cars is notoriously off. My car will rev to 9k on the tach when set to 8500 fuel cut.

Though for a very long time, I was under the same impression, that the stock tach was really off, but it turns out, it's actually the computer has lag, to where it actually takes the needle time to stop swinging and to move to the next rpm. Once I switched to Hondata, the tach is dead on, I'd say less than 100 rpm off.

Either way, the comptech ECU does raise your rev limiter slightly, but I think only to like 8700rpm, nothing too cazy that I think would break anything, so I really wouldn't worry about it, as long as you have a rev limiter, you should be fine. Comptech does enough extensive testing and dyno time, where I'm sure for what you're running, It will be pretty good.

Later,
Aj

My info is based on my POwer FC's read out.

[hopofthese]

That is likely the stock fuel cut settings. THe Tach's on our cars is notoriously off. My car will rev to 9k on the tach when set to 8500 fuel cut.

Though for a very long time, I was under the same impression, that the stock tach was really off, but it turns out, it's actually the computer has lag, to where it actually takes the needle time to stop swinging and to move to the next rpm. Once I switched to Hondata, the tach is dead on, I'd say less than 100 rpm off.

Either way, the comptech ECU does raise your rev limiter slightly, but I think only to like 8700rpm, nothing too cazy that I think would break anything, so I really wouldn't worry about it, as long as you have a rev limiter, you should be fine. Comptech does enough extensive testing and dyno time, where I'm sure for what you're running, It will be pretty good.

Later,
Aj

thanx man! but when should i shift.

[Aj]

The power FC is more accurate than the stock tach, but what I was saying was, that the actual tach it self is not the problem, it's the sub routines run by the ECU, and given that the Power FC probably runs a normal routine, that's probably why it's off still, but if you use, for example as I have a Hondata, it cures the problem, other ecus, like Link, and some others also cure the problem.

As far as when to shift, just don't bounce the rev limiter, and you should be fine. If you really want to get precise, go to the dyno and see where it makes the most power, and if the power up high drops off significantly in the high end, where it makes less power than it would in the next gear, then you would want to shift, otherwise, just wind it out till you absolutely have to shift.

Later,
Aj

[Trey]

The power FC is more accurate than the stock tach, but what I was saying was, that the actual tach it self is not the problem, it's the sub routines run by the ECU, and given that the Power FC probably runs a normal routine, that's probably why it's off still, but if you use, for example as I have a Hondata, it cures the problem, other ecus, like Link, and some others also cure the problem.

As far as when to shift, just don't bounce the rev limiter, and you should be fine. If you really want to get precise, go to the dyno and see where it makes the most power, and if the power up high drops off significantly in the high end, where it makes less power than it would in the next gear, then you would want to shift, otherwise, just wind it out till you absolutely have to shift.

Later,
Aj

AJ how is the Hondata fixing this that the power FC would not? I would like to look into this. I am looking at some new equipment designed for the power FC that just came out and curious if it would correct/change this.

Trey

[Aj]

Not entirely sure, but I had a long conversation with Matt at hondata, who has an ITR him self, and he told me more than I ever wanted to know about hondata and the way in functions and, well, basically, most of it went a little over my head. I suppose it's the way the ECU interfaces with the tach, but I think it just measures RPM more acurately from the distributor triger.

Any way, next time I talk to him, I'll as him more about it, but hopefully I won't have that need in the near future....

Later,
Aj