has anyone cleaned their throttle body, anyone have a procedure? There seems to be a ring of lubricant around the throttle plate in the venturi..this lube is a bit dirty I think..does it need to be cleaned on a regular basis?
Dev
throttle swab.
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HONDA GHANDI
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I'm not sure exactly what sort of lube you are talking about, but to the best of my knowledge, there shouldn't be any thing visible in your TB or manifold as far as dirt.
As was already said, get some carb/tb cleaner somewhere, and blast your tb when it's closed and the car is off, then clean it off with a rag. If you want to get really nutty, you can take off your manifold to make sure it's clean. Supposedly this will also help flow, although from what I understand it's more preventative maintenence than anything else.
Good Luck,
Aj
As was already said, get some carb/tb cleaner somewhere, and blast your tb when it's closed and the car is off, then clean it off with a rag. If you want to get really nutty, you can take off your manifold to make sure it's clean. Supposedly this will also help flow, although from what I understand it's more preventative maintenence than anything else.
Good Luck,
Aj
Help flow?
Aj,
what flow are you talking about.....and yeah, I seem to have this ring of oily residue around the tp, don't get it , Ive changed filters three times already. If I do pull off the mani. what are the torgue specs to replace it?
What is the hose that connects to the air intake ( behind the box, a bit in front of the T/b), is this emmisions crap?! maybe Im getting some dischargen from this?! WTF---
Anyone else exp. this?....the stock Honda element doesn't need filter oil does it?
TIV, Dev
what flow are you talking about.....and yeah, I seem to have this ring of oily residue around the tp, don't get it , Ive changed filters three times already. If I do pull off the mani. what are the torgue specs to replace it?
What is the hose that connects to the air intake ( behind the box, a bit in front of the T/b), is this emmisions crap?! maybe Im getting some dischargen from this?! WTF---
Anyone else exp. this?....the stock Honda element doesn't need filter oil does it?
TIV, Dev
I'm assuming that the hose your talking about is your breather for your head, the one that comes off the valve cover and connects to your intake, this also serves as a hot water relay to your throttle body, but other than a little black stuff on the inside of your intake, it really should be causing any residue such as you mentioned.
Realistically, no, it's not emissions, and you really don't want to disable it. There are many arguments about using breathers on the valve cover side of the breather, but to state my opinion, which is actually based on fact rather than popular opinion, the head as well as crank case needs to be well ventilated in order to run to it's fullest potential, this is why you see many road race cars with catch cans that replace the PCV for better crank case ventilation, which by the way is good for about 3whp on the dyno.
And No, Honda filters do not require oil, as they are paper/cotton composite filters, but they eventually do need to be replaced, I think about every 30K miles or sooner, but that should be causing that oily residue you are talking about.
As far as removing you TB, it may not be a bad idea, but as far as yanking off your manifold to clean it, it's really way over kill, and I probably wouldn't waste your time unless you have another reason to do it. Once you remove you throttle body, hit it from both sides with carb cleaner, and clean it thouroughly with a rag, if the oily residue you mentioned remains, the only thing I could think it would be is lube from either your TPS or Butterfly on the other end????
Try removing the TB and using carb cleaner, just make sure you put the sensors and water line back in the right places. If that doesn't work, then you're on your own.
Good Luck,
Aj
Realistically, no, it's not emissions, and you really don't want to disable it. There are many arguments about using breathers on the valve cover side of the breather, but to state my opinion, which is actually based on fact rather than popular opinion, the head as well as crank case needs to be well ventilated in order to run to it's fullest potential, this is why you see many road race cars with catch cans that replace the PCV for better crank case ventilation, which by the way is good for about 3whp on the dyno.
And No, Honda filters do not require oil, as they are paper/cotton composite filters, but they eventually do need to be replaced, I think about every 30K miles or sooner, but that should be causing that oily residue you are talking about.
As far as removing you TB, it may not be a bad idea, but as far as yanking off your manifold to clean it, it's really way over kill, and I probably wouldn't waste your time unless you have another reason to do it. Once you remove you throttle body, hit it from both sides with carb cleaner, and clean it thouroughly with a rag, if the oily residue you mentioned remains, the only thing I could think it would be is lube from either your TPS or Butterfly on the other end????
Try removing the TB and using carb cleaner, just make sure you put the sensors and water line back in the right places. If that doesn't work, then you're on your own.
Good Luck,
Aj
TPS
Sweet, alright.....lets say I pull off the T/b, and clean it, am I going to hve to re-adjust that TPS or what. The chems wont disolve anything in that sensor?
Yeah I worry toooo much when it comes to this....
I like the sound of the catch can, regardless if the car is too be raced or not, any recomendations?!?
Dev
Yeah I worry toooo much when it comes to this....
I like the sound of the catch can, regardless if the car is too be raced or not, any recomendations?!?
Dev
Not only will you not need to screw with it, you can't, it's actually rivited on, and you shouldn't be able to change it even if you wanted to. In my case, I pulled out the rivets in order to be able to screw with it, but you have no need, and I wouldn't recomend it unless you really know what you're doing. In order to remove the TB, just unplug the sensors and hoses, and then just undo the 2 nuts and 2 bolts, and you're done. You may wanna consider replacing the gasket. Carb cleaner shouldn't have any affect on any sensor, but be careful regardless and don't directly spray any of the sensors.
As far as the catch can and crank case breather, unless you buy a breather with detailed instructions, or you know what you're doing, have someone else do it. A company out of texas called Endyn makes a catch can, and Larry can walk you through how to do it. It's on the pricey side, but I'm sure there are others on the market. If you get anything from Endyn, tell them AJ sent you, and they'll help you out with some tech questions if you end up getting it from them.
Later,
Aj
As far as the catch can and crank case breather, unless you buy a breather with detailed instructions, or you know what you're doing, have someone else do it. A company out of texas called Endyn makes a catch can, and Larry can walk you through how to do it. It's on the pricey side, but I'm sure there are others on the market. If you get anything from Endyn, tell them AJ sent you, and they'll help you out with some tech questions if you end up getting it from them.
Later,
Aj
Tps
Alright......just curious, why would you screw with the settings. ive adjusted TPS on other engines, and that was only because it needed to be replaced, and nissan's specs are a resistance of like 1.1, I cant remember. Would you adjust for high lift/duration idle?
Any science!
Dev
Any science!
Dev
The only real reason why you would ever adjust your TPS is if it's out of allignment, or if you get a new TB that requires you to use your old TPS. Much of the time when you install a new ECU in your car that wasn't originally designed for it, for example and OBD1 P28 ecu that many people use, is often a different power supply, and can sometimes depending on the power offset can set your TPS sensor off very slightly, just enough to change the TPS voltage to where the idle either fluctuates, or the low idle fuel cutoff routines don't work.
In any case, it's not something you'll likely ever worry about, just as long as the TPS is at about .50-.51 volts, it's fine. If you ever do need to screw with it, I think the replacement allan jey screws are a 6mm, and surprisingly enough are sold at Lowes which is where I found them and I think also Home Depot.
As far as idle goes, the purpose for Vtec, is drivability, and even with the most aggresive cams, you ussualy don't affect the idle too much. In any case, good luck
Later,
Aj
In any case, it's not something you'll likely ever worry about, just as long as the TPS is at about .50-.51 volts, it's fine. If you ever do need to screw with it, I think the replacement allan jey screws are a 6mm, and surprisingly enough are sold at Lowes which is where I found them and I think also Home Depot.
As far as idle goes, the purpose for Vtec, is drivability, and even with the most aggresive cams, you ussualy don't affect the idle too much. In any case, good luck
Later,
Aj