need some help!?!?!!??
need some help!?!?!!??
im thinkin of makin' my itr a lil faster. What else can i do? i already have jdm 4-1 exh manifold, mugen cat back,hi flo cat,low temp thermostat,cam gears, fuel press regulator,moroso oil pan, upgraded ecu,and thats it.! HELP!!!!!
SoHc my DoHc?
Dave's Garage
Dave's Garage
-
- New ITRCA Member
- Posts: 32
- Joined: March 5th, 2003, 2:28 am
- Location: Springpatch, MO
- Contact:
helps!!
what's out there better than the stock itr cams and valve train? skunk2? spoon? jun? im lookin for an n/a all motor.(keep the R true.! ) i have high milage and wanna kinda rebuild it top end that is.77k thanks fo the input guys.!!!!!
SoHc my DoHc?
Dave's Garage
Dave's Garage
wow.....that's not exactly what I'd call an easy question to answer. Starting with, more power, is not necesarily better, or, I should say, less problematic. First off, understand that you will spend 1500-2000 dollars rebuilding your head, secondly, if your car is high mileage, which by the way 77K is not high miles, nor are you do for a rebuild, unless you are unhappy with your performance.
Any way, to make a long story short, there are many different routes in which to go all motor in a honda, depending on what you want to spend. What kind of budget are you on, and what are you looking to accomplish???
Later,
Aj
Any way, to make a long story short, there are many different routes in which to go all motor in a honda, depending on what you want to spend. What kind of budget are you on, and what are you looking to accomplish???
Later,
Aj
im thinkin of going all out on my head. change up my whole valvetrain. port and polish,5 angle valve job. maybe thats about it. still not sure. just gettin some ideas. dont know if i want mad speed or just a lil faster than what i have. only problem is where i live we have sorry machine shops to work on my head. we used to have skunk 2 near here but they moved to so. cal. who knows maybe i wont even touch my head and just go with some more bolt-ons.!!!!! gas is tooooo expensive and my R loves gas..
SoHc my DoHc?
Dave's Garage
Dave's Garage
all comes down to how much $$$ you have you can port,polish head, go .20 on block over sized pistons, Toda B or Jun 3 cams but then i heard some good things bout Skunk2 cams.. flywheel, chipped P28 with harness go obd1 maybe 2 1/2 inch exhaust... all comes down to you money flow.....hope that helps weekend of driving course..not being rude but you be suprised the $hit you can pick up from experienced instructors...
Well, a five angle valve job isn't very good of a choice for a street car, as tenatively they should be re-touched up every once and a while, where a three angle does not.
As far as going wild in your head....in order to do up a good head job, you should have some decent compression to go with it, otherwise its scope is limited, and the power you can extract from the head is minimal, even with a good set of cams. Realistically, from what I've found, and no one ever really likes to listen to me, but, leaving your car at least close to stock, is about the best thing you can do, and later on, you'll wish you had....
Later,
Aj
As far as going wild in your head....in order to do up a good head job, you should have some decent compression to go with it, otherwise its scope is limited, and the power you can extract from the head is minimal, even with a good set of cams. Realistically, from what I've found, and no one ever really likes to listen to me, but, leaving your car at least close to stock, is about the best thing you can do, and later on, you'll wish you had....
Later,
Aj
please someone help
Ijust purchased a 98 integra r and the first night i have it i was running some friends of mine and when i shifted to secound gear it shut off and wont start back up The car has jun cams, retainers, valvesprings, camgears, and lightweight flywheel, Ohh and a jun ecu.. I shifted at 9400, thats supposed to be safe with all tthis stuff also i was a little low on fuel if that helps... some one please help
help....I hope
Well, unfortunately without seeing it, or hearing what happened, it's kinda hard to say.
could be:
1. Blown head gasket, though, you'd notice a messy engine bay, covered in coolant and or oil, and chances are, it would still start, just not really go very far.
2. Dropped a valve, though, more than likely, you would have heard that. It would have sounded like you threw a penny into a blender for a couple seconds.
3. Cracked a sleeve, but in that case, you would have really let out a huge cloud of smoke, and I'd say you could also probably start it up, well maybe.
4. Snapped a timing belt, pray you didn't....
5. Tapped a plug or two, which would actually be lucky out of all the stuff that you could have done, where your car wouldn't start, assuming it's something mechanical, in which case, more than likely you should just take it all apart and clay the head, and measure everything for clearances, cause it wasn't done correctly in the first place.
6. Could have blown a coil/ignitor, which would be nice, in which case, the car wouldn't have any spark. This is easy to test for, just pull a plug, put it in the spark plug wire, rest the base in the valve cover, have some one start it, and see if you can see the spark jump from the diode.
7. Lastly, it could be something really stupid, like spinning an alternator or something like that, where your alternator died a while ago, and it finally just ran down your battery, though it sounds like you would have tried to jump start it already.
8. Wire for the starter came off?????????
You really got me on this one, honestly, I'd pull the valve cover off, and check to make sure all the valves are there, pull the plugs, make sure they're all intact, and also inspect to see if any retainers are cracked.
If you tapped a plug, you'll need a breaker bar to get it out, which also could be a sign of worse things to come, so be aware that putting a new plug in may not solve the problem, and it could be something else as well.
If you notice that a retainer is cracked/missing, or that a valve isn't attached to a retainer, then you can hope for the best, and budget for the worst, hopefully, that's not the case. Just push down to compress the spring a little and give a little tug on each retainer and make sure it stays in place, this way you can tell if the rotating assembly is still intact. If that all checks out, you can breath a little easier that your head is more than likely still pretty intact.
Once you've gone through all that and not found a problem, I'd pull the oil pan and flywheel casing, which is just a couple dozen little nuts, and like seven bolts, pull, the windage tray and oil pick up, and you'll be stairing at the bottoms of your pistons and rods, and you should be able with a flash light to see any scoring on the walls of your sleeves, or any cracks or disformities in your rods and pistons. DON'T TOUCH THE OIL SQUIRTERS, they have a tendency to break, and you don't want to have to buy more parts than you need to. Just remember to drain your oil first before pulling the pan....ahhahaa, otherwise you'll be in for a real surprise.
Well, try all the really easy stuff first, then start taking stuff apart, but make sure it's something mechanical, and chances are, if it won't turn back on after 9K+ rpm, than it's likely something mechanical.
Good luck with it, let us know what it turns out to be...
Later,
Aj
could be:
1. Blown head gasket, though, you'd notice a messy engine bay, covered in coolant and or oil, and chances are, it would still start, just not really go very far.
2. Dropped a valve, though, more than likely, you would have heard that. It would have sounded like you threw a penny into a blender for a couple seconds.
3. Cracked a sleeve, but in that case, you would have really let out a huge cloud of smoke, and I'd say you could also probably start it up, well maybe.
4. Snapped a timing belt, pray you didn't....
5. Tapped a plug or two, which would actually be lucky out of all the stuff that you could have done, where your car wouldn't start, assuming it's something mechanical, in which case, more than likely you should just take it all apart and clay the head, and measure everything for clearances, cause it wasn't done correctly in the first place.
6. Could have blown a coil/ignitor, which would be nice, in which case, the car wouldn't have any spark. This is easy to test for, just pull a plug, put it in the spark plug wire, rest the base in the valve cover, have some one start it, and see if you can see the spark jump from the diode.
7. Lastly, it could be something really stupid, like spinning an alternator or something like that, where your alternator died a while ago, and it finally just ran down your battery, though it sounds like you would have tried to jump start it already.
8. Wire for the starter came off?????????
You really got me on this one, honestly, I'd pull the valve cover off, and check to make sure all the valves are there, pull the plugs, make sure they're all intact, and also inspect to see if any retainers are cracked.
If you tapped a plug, you'll need a breaker bar to get it out, which also could be a sign of worse things to come, so be aware that putting a new plug in may not solve the problem, and it could be something else as well.
If you notice that a retainer is cracked/missing, or that a valve isn't attached to a retainer, then you can hope for the best, and budget for the worst, hopefully, that's not the case. Just push down to compress the spring a little and give a little tug on each retainer and make sure it stays in place, this way you can tell if the rotating assembly is still intact. If that all checks out, you can breath a little easier that your head is more than likely still pretty intact.
Once you've gone through all that and not found a problem, I'd pull the oil pan and flywheel casing, which is just a couple dozen little nuts, and like seven bolts, pull, the windage tray and oil pick up, and you'll be stairing at the bottoms of your pistons and rods, and you should be able with a flash light to see any scoring on the walls of your sleeves, or any cracks or disformities in your rods and pistons. DON'T TOUCH THE OIL SQUIRTERS, they have a tendency to break, and you don't want to have to buy more parts than you need to. Just remember to drain your oil first before pulling the pan....ahhahaa, otherwise you'll be in for a real surprise.
Well, try all the really easy stuff first, then start taking stuff apart, but make sure it's something mechanical, and chances are, if it won't turn back on after 9K+ rpm, than it's likely something mechanical.
Good luck with it, let us know what it turns out to be...
Later,
Aj
fixed my problum
Shortly after i posted my forum i started working trying to find out the problom.. Shortly after i pulled the plug and noticed that i was not getting any spark i pulled my cap off the distributer and noticed some plastic pieces broken in there .. Turns out the set screw in that holds the rotor on the small shaft had backed it self out and damaged the rotor and knocked a wire loose in the distributer.. A quick trip down to the parts store and it was running fine again.. But a few hours later i was running it pretty hard again and broke a big piece of my clutch on the disc where the springs are held in.. So ive replaced it with a act stage 3 and hd pressure plate... THANKS FOR THE HELP!!!! Chris
I had mine back out once, and It really killed my distributor cap, but other than that, I didn't notice any adverse performance with it. I just happened to hear a rattle, so I took it to the dealer and had them take it apart...gotta love warranty.
Any way, if you're gonna use locktite, make sure you use the realy light stuff, not the red stuff, cause otherwise you'll have a really hard time getting it out later, if it even comes out without stripping....
Later,
Aj
Any way, if you're gonna use locktite, make sure you use the realy light stuff, not the red stuff, cause otherwise you'll have a really hard time getting it out later, if it even comes out without stripping....
Later,
Aj