The plan I have is this:
upgraded final gear ratio (btw, what do people mostly upgrade to and what is the stock ratio)?
VAFC
intake
exhaust
cam
Is that a good combo?
baisc mod combo
Well....if I'm not mistaken, the current final drive is 4.4 and the one you probably want to swtich to is in the area of 4.7 to 4.9 depending on what you want to do.
As far as the rest of the stuff, it's not that cut and dry, or at least not for an import. Along with cams, there are several integral components that you will also need to change to keep your car running and in one piece. You may want to do your homework some before doing that particular mod. try using the search function, there have been at least a couple threads detailing some suggestions on cams, springs, retainers, and other things that get tossed into the mix.
If you can't find anything, let mw know, and I'll dig one up for you...This way you have a range of opinions.
Later,
Aj
As far as the rest of the stuff, it's not that cut and dry, or at least not for an import. Along with cams, there are several integral components that you will also need to change to keep your car running and in one piece. You may want to do your homework some before doing that particular mod. try using the search function, there have been at least a couple threads detailing some suggestions on cams, springs, retainers, and other things that get tossed into the mix.
If you can't find anything, let mw know, and I'll dig one up for you...This way you have a range of opinions.
Later,
Aj
I'll throw out my preferences for mods to help you start your research.
Intake = Comptech Icebox
I have had an AEM and an Icebox and the Icebox is not as loud, makes similar power and is stock looking. I really like this piece.
Header = JDM OEM 4-1
Have this now and have been very pleased. You can puit a heatshield on it and it is very incognito. THis is a great band for the buck header at sub $400. You will need to buy a 2.5" custom Cat from somewhere like http://www.hybridgarage.com.
Exhaust = Dunno I am running stock cause I am a fuddy duddy who doesn't like noice. My top Choices would be SMS Products, Hytech Twin Loop, Buddy Club 63mm setup, Comptech, Stock with Buddy Club B-pipe.
Final Drive = ATS 4.929
Not cheap or easy to install but worth it. I woudl do this when you need your clutch done and do a Lightweight Flywheel at the same time. jack@p1auto.com has the knowledge on this setup.
VAFC = I'd probably go ahead and spend the money for a Hondata.
(You will wish you had when you get cams). Talk to Matt@hondata.com to figure out what is best for you. Also you are not too far from Virginia the hondata Guru on the East coast is Steve Sakai so I'd be sure to go see him.
Cams = Stock are my favorite. I'd say Toda B's or Skunk2 Stage 2's would be my next choice but a LOT of other parts are needed besides cams to do this right.
Intake = Comptech Icebox
I have had an AEM and an Icebox and the Icebox is not as loud, makes similar power and is stock looking. I really like this piece.
Header = JDM OEM 4-1
Have this now and have been very pleased. You can puit a heatshield on it and it is very incognito. THis is a great band for the buck header at sub $400. You will need to buy a 2.5" custom Cat from somewhere like http://www.hybridgarage.com.
Exhaust = Dunno I am running stock cause I am a fuddy duddy who doesn't like noice. My top Choices would be SMS Products, Hytech Twin Loop, Buddy Club 63mm setup, Comptech, Stock with Buddy Club B-pipe.
Final Drive = ATS 4.929
Not cheap or easy to install but worth it. I woudl do this when you need your clutch done and do a Lightweight Flywheel at the same time. jack@p1auto.com has the knowledge on this setup.
VAFC = I'd probably go ahead and spend the money for a Hondata.
(You will wish you had when you get cams). Talk to Matt@hondata.com to figure out what is best for you. Also you are not too far from Virginia the hondata Guru on the East coast is Steve Sakai so I'd be sure to go see him.
Cams = Stock are my favorite. I'd say Toda B's or Skunk2 Stage 2's would be my next choice but a LOT of other parts are needed besides cams to do this right.
Hahahaha....fuddy duddy, that's good, I havn't heard any one say that in a while.Trey wrote:.
Exhaust = Dunno I am running stock cause I am a fuddy duddy who doesn't like noice. My top Choices would be SMS Products, Hytech Twin Loop, Buddy Club 63mm setup, Comptech, Stock with Buddy Club B-pipe.
As far as exhausts go, I ran stock for a really long time cause I didn't want my car to become loud, but in all honesty, when I yanked my cat, it got a bit on the raspy side. I changed to the Mugen, and it isn't any louder, just a lot deaper. I think that's probably the same with the Hytech twin loop, as it shares a very similar design...
just food for thought....
Later,
Aj
Your mods depend on what you want to do - what DO you want to do?
Is this just to have more fun with your car, as in a street driven car?
Do you plan to autocross or go to HPDE's/Track Days?
If you want to get into autox and track days, you can have an amazing time while pushing the car very hard with just some high/max performance street tires like the Falken Azenis, some brake pads, ATE superblue, and a helmet. Same goes for autox.
If you want to do that PLUS you'd like some extra added power to help stretch your R's 'legs' and help it breathe better, there are plenty of good bolt-on mods.
Intake:
AEM CAI - good intake, makes good top end power, but is obnoxiously loud. One of the things I love about my R is hearing the engine sing, not the intake wallop scare my neighbors. I'd pass on this one, although it IS dyno proven.
Comptech Icebox - what Trey said. Nicely made, sounds good, makes power. I'm not impressed with it, at least not anymore than I am with the AEM. You won't lose the bit of torque you might have lost with the AEM. All around good performer.
Mugen CAI - The King of All Intakes. Also dyno proven from 2500rpm all the way up, like the icebox and the AEM. It makes the MOST hp/tq of any R intake. It also is just as quiet as stock and the icebox. Check out http://www.kingmotorsports.com/ to see the intake if you don't know anything about it. It is very expensive, but if you find a used one or have the money to spend, it is worth it. It is a total night and day difference from stock, and a healthy upgrade from the icebox/aem/j's racing intake, etc. Uses the stock intake arm and an enormous cold air duct. Installation is a b*tch.
Headers
budget-conscious - JDM OEM 4-1 (2.5" collector, requires a larger aftermarket cat, like a carsound cat available from SMS products), JDM DC 4-1 (same comment as above)
Expensive, dyno proven (in price order!): Spoon, Toda 4-2-1, SMSP, Hytech.
Exhaust
Like Trey, I'm a bit fuddy duddy. I have the fujitsubo RM-01A, and I made 8whp and 4wtq with this exhaust, pretty consistent gains from 4000rpm and up. I have heard equally good things from the SMSP exhaust, which is even quieter than mine, very stock looking. Again, hytech is an excellent product with excellent gains, but Very expensive compared to other options.
Just remember - Loud does not equal faster! there are stock-sounding exhausts that flow as good as any.
VAFC is a good option if tuned correctly. That's very important: if you don't know what you are doing, the VAFC will be a big disappointment.
Final Drive - Great mod!!
I dont' have a different final drive, but everyone who has one loves it, and those who don't swear an awful lot on road courses, wishing they had one. 4.785 is the JDM Final Drive, and 4.929 is ATS's final drive. Both lower top speed slightly in exchange for quicker acceleration and lowered shifting points. ATS supposedly makes the R MUCH more exciting to drive.
Cams - this depends on what you want. Mid range? Top end and a higher redline? Drag? Track? I'd stick with the other mods, intake/header/cat/exhaust/final drive/lightweight rims/tires/pads, etc. and wait for cams.
That's a whole lot of babble I just did.
There are many people on this board with a ton of info - make sure to ask if you need info about specific products, tuning, etc!
Is this just to have more fun with your car, as in a street driven car?
Do you plan to autocross or go to HPDE's/Track Days?
If you want to get into autox and track days, you can have an amazing time while pushing the car very hard with just some high/max performance street tires like the Falken Azenis, some brake pads, ATE superblue, and a helmet. Same goes for autox.
If you want to do that PLUS you'd like some extra added power to help stretch your R's 'legs' and help it breathe better, there are plenty of good bolt-on mods.
Intake:
AEM CAI - good intake, makes good top end power, but is obnoxiously loud. One of the things I love about my R is hearing the engine sing, not the intake wallop scare my neighbors. I'd pass on this one, although it IS dyno proven.
Comptech Icebox - what Trey said. Nicely made, sounds good, makes power. I'm not impressed with it, at least not anymore than I am with the AEM. You won't lose the bit of torque you might have lost with the AEM. All around good performer.
Mugen CAI - The King of All Intakes. Also dyno proven from 2500rpm all the way up, like the icebox and the AEM. It makes the MOST hp/tq of any R intake. It also is just as quiet as stock and the icebox. Check out http://www.kingmotorsports.com/ to see the intake if you don't know anything about it. It is very expensive, but if you find a used one or have the money to spend, it is worth it. It is a total night and day difference from stock, and a healthy upgrade from the icebox/aem/j's racing intake, etc. Uses the stock intake arm and an enormous cold air duct. Installation is a b*tch.
Headers
budget-conscious - JDM OEM 4-1 (2.5" collector, requires a larger aftermarket cat, like a carsound cat available from SMS products), JDM DC 4-1 (same comment as above)
Expensive, dyno proven (in price order!): Spoon, Toda 4-2-1, SMSP, Hytech.
Exhaust
Like Trey, I'm a bit fuddy duddy. I have the fujitsubo RM-01A, and I made 8whp and 4wtq with this exhaust, pretty consistent gains from 4000rpm and up. I have heard equally good things from the SMSP exhaust, which is even quieter than mine, very stock looking. Again, hytech is an excellent product with excellent gains, but Very expensive compared to other options.
Just remember - Loud does not equal faster! there are stock-sounding exhausts that flow as good as any.
VAFC is a good option if tuned correctly. That's very important: if you don't know what you are doing, the VAFC will be a big disappointment.
Final Drive - Great mod!!
I dont' have a different final drive, but everyone who has one loves it, and those who don't swear an awful lot on road courses, wishing they had one. 4.785 is the JDM Final Drive, and 4.929 is ATS's final drive. Both lower top speed slightly in exchange for quicker acceleration and lowered shifting points. ATS supposedly makes the R MUCH more exciting to drive.
Cams - this depends on what you want. Mid range? Top end and a higher redline? Drag? Track? I'd stick with the other mods, intake/header/cat/exhaust/final drive/lightweight rims/tires/pads, etc. and wait for cams.
That's a whole lot of babble I just did.
There are many people on this board with a ton of info - make sure to ask if you need info about specific products, tuning, etc!
-
George Knighton
- ITRCA Member
- Posts: 418
- Joined: September 12th, 2002, 8:12 am
- Location: Culpeper Virginia (Besieged)
- Contact:
Only problem with the Mugen USDM spec air box for the ITR is that you can't run both A/C as well as that cold box, so it's a real sacrifice if you live somewhere where it's hot durring any portion of the year...
That's a sacrifice I'm not willing to make for what will amount to only a couple hp at most...
Later,
Aj
That's a sacrifice I'm not willing to make for what will amount to only a couple hp at most...
Later,
Aj
It can be run with AC (Has been done) but it isn't an easy install by any means from what I understand.Aj wrote:Only problem with the Mugen USDM spec air box for the ITR is that you can't run both A/C as well as that cold box, so it's a real sacrifice if you live somewhere where it's hot durring any portion of the year...
That's a sacrifice I'm not willing to make for what will amount to only a couple hp at most...
Later,
Aj
There are at least 2 people from honda-Tech that have done it.
It can be done with not much of a problem. I have done it, so have at least 4 others on Honda-Tech that I can think of off the top of my head.Trey wrote:It can be run with AC (Has been done) but it isn't an easy install by any means from what I understand.Aj wrote:Only problem with the Mugen USDM spec air box for the ITR is that you can't run both A/C as well as that cold box, so it's a real sacrifice if you live somewhere where it's hot durring any portion of the year...
That's a sacrifice I'm not willing to make for what will amount to only a couple hp at most...
Later,
Aj
There are at least 2 people from honda-Tech that have done it.
The a/c lines have to be moved somewhat, and installation is a serious pain, but it is very worth it.
*When I said 'not much of a problem' above, I was referring to not needing to remove anything permanently, just relocate the a/c lines in three places and remove things like the radiator overflow and a few harness clips during installation. (they can all go back in their stock location after install)
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Type R 98
- ITRCA Member
- Posts: 197
- Joined: January 21st, 2003, 4:59 am
- Location: Quebec, Canada
- Contact:
mugen ice box
so if i understand clearly... if i don't have AC on my R installing the mugen ice box is easy?
All Motor Championship white Mugen exterior ITR 1998 #870