94vtec2tone wrote:dave i take none of that as an insult to be honest.
Im thinkin either to make a bpi velocity on a 3inch arm or run it on my arm now at the end. id prefer to run the bpi a little closer to the radiator because where its cut, dum place. its super tight with a stock filter. the cai happened to make 3-5whp from 3k up over the sri just to let you know.
removing ps doesnt make hp, but it does free up stolen hp that i know. maybe i worded it wrong.
the blox has specs on team integra or hondatech somewhere. i was just doin dumshit back then and figured it was a good mod. but from what i read the stock mani doesnt flow quite as well uptop as the type r style blox.
why would the bypass valve be hurting my performance btw?
fuel rail and groudning kit i have basically ixnayed on, cut them out cause its not a good idea at all.
the skunk2 stage 1s do have bigger duration and lift than the itrs i have read that for sure. i current do not know if im going to bolt in cams and gears and tune it like that. or do a full head build yet.
i would prefer to make my exhaust a 2.5 by hytech its not a cheap mod but its a twinpass and true 2.5ID
i have gotten a few posts saying my numbers are inflated which personally i cant say they are or arent. i know i got it dynoed and this is what i got.
i am currently looking, or looking into. porting the intake manifold, either the blox or 2stage gsr. wondering about taking the butterflies out completely and porting the whole manifold because of the way its built.
jethot coating seems like it would help a little with the intake temps and the engine bay temps
While the CAI version will make more WHP, if it wasn't cut for the bypass it would make more, and the reason I said run in SRI config.
That cut for the bypass is having a negative effect on overall performance of your CAI. Without that bypass I'd be willing to bet in CAI configuration it makes more than it does now.
Correct, but removing the PS is not something you'd feel (in terms of more HP) it's more of a feel (for me and most that track their cars) of the road. Once you drive a car with, and without PS on the track, you will notice quite a bit of difference in the "feel" of the car. You'd probably have more "effect" of weight savings than HP by removing the PS.
Correct, on a GS-R, the manifold does not flow higher RPM's like an ITR style intake. Just wanted to question why the change (and if like a stock ITR mani, a good change btw)
The bypass valve will hurt the CAI config performance because it allows air to go from the intake filter and back out the valve. It's also not a smooth transition to the upper tubing area.
Good idea on the grounding kit and fuel rail.
While I agree there is a little difference in the ITR and S2 Stage 1's... you won't see much difference on a dyno (and your looking for WHP numbers here, so if your going to go and do cams, my suggestion is Stage 2's.)
IMO, the Hytech exhaust is one of the best on the market. I'm looking to get rid of my Mugen TL for one of these. While expensive, getting to 200 WHP is expensive in the first place.
What others mean by "inflated" is the correction rating on the dyno... but you can't just go by that. Different dyno's read different numbers and weather conditions play a HUGE role in the numbers. Exact same cars also, dyno'd back to back will make different numbers with exact same mods. Altitude also plays a role in dyno numbers.
At the moment, I don't, in my opinion think you have the mods to support porting the intake manifold (and I would definitely do the Blox ITR style vs. the GS-R one even with butterflies removed) Now if you had some head work, better flowing intake/exhaust/header and some cams, then I would look into this, but only after doing the other mods first.
While coating might help a little bit, the cost of having those items coated could get you a better intake (mugens come up used for around $500) or other mods. I understand what your trying to get to by reducing intake temps, but remember, it's a CAI configuration and made out of Aluminum. It's not going to get heat soak like a SRI setup.
Again though, I think in order to get to your goal of 200 WHP on a C1 block, your going to have to change pistons. My suggestion when/if you decide you want to do that is a set of JDM P30 pistons, and not CTR pistons. While a CTR piston will yeild a higher CR, it also has a higher dome and leads to detonation. Also, the CTR piston is the heaviest B series OEM piston.
The reason I stand behind the higher quality parts/mods is simple... I have an ITR with very minimal mods making 192 WHP (could go more, but was building the car to Honda Challenge H2 specs) That 192 WHP was acheived with only a Mugen intake, SMSP header, SMSP Race exhaust (do NOT recommend this for a street car, you WILL get pulled over) Hondata IM gasket and Mugen head gasket. All of the rest is either stock, or will not affect performance.
On my other car, I have P30 pistons, Skunk2 Pro 1 cams, Mugen head gasket, Mugen intake, stage 2 P&P head with supertech valve springs and valves, SMSP header, test pipe, Mugen TL exhaust, Hondata IM gasket. Without any tuning, I'm already at 192 WHP, and without even changing the IM/TB (which I need to do because I start sucking vaccum at 7k RPM) I could easily tune to over 200 WHP, but I'm also near sea level (Florida) which will affect the dyno numbers.
I guess what I'm getting at is when you set a goal, you have to sit back and think how your going to realistically get to that goal. Set a budget. That will determine what mods/manufacturers of parts you use. Look at the big picture and how mod 1. will work with mod 2. you don't want to have to turn around and sell parts for a loss, when you could have gotten what you needed in the first place.
Dave
I used to run an AEM V2 on my old GS-R and never had any issues with water or hydrolock.
