Dave B wrote:Honestly though, for DD duties I'd go around the 8/10 range.
I agree though the softer valving thing makes no sense. You'd want the valving as close to ideal for the sring rate itself which will offer the best ride quality as well as grip no matter what the rate. 16k+ can be comfortable daily given the right valving and chassis dynamics.
Dave B wrote:Honestly though, for DD duties I'd go around the 8/10 range.
I agree though the softer valving thing makes no sense. You'd want the valving as close to ideal for the sring rate itself which will offer the best ride quality as well as grip no matter what the rate. 16k+ can be comfortable daily given the right valving and chassis dynamics.
Well, to some extent. For example, I had my set custom valved for Sebring. Sebring is notoriously bumpy as hell. I kept the 12/14 rates, but just some softer valving for more control and let rebound thus causing loss of control.
If you wanted to run stiff rates on the street I'd have them not valved at ideal for the spring rates. That would make a very harsh ride on the street with all the grooves, bumps and pot holes.
its pretty simple jim. the purpose of the catch can is to "evacuate" pressure in the crankcase. some ways work well but also get oil involved, other ways are better which Ill explain below.
currently, I removed my stock PCV system, plugged the hole for the black box, and ran 2 5/8in hoses from the back of the block (freeze plugs were replaced with the Honda port plugs) to the can (generic Ebay can, $7). I then drilled a hole in the top of the can, and added a small breather filter. I ran it this way for awhile, but was filling the can after 2 pulls on the highway because I had no drainback and due to physics, oil was being pushed from the back of the block into the can under hard acceleration. so I added a drainback feature and no problems since. however, I would rather no oil at all enter the can, so I will be changing it completely soon to the method below.
optimally, you would want to tap into the front of the valve cover with 2 fittings (behind the baffles inside the cover), and run those two lines to a can with a breather on it. if you tap behind the baffles, the baffles will help keep oil out and only allow pressure to escape. only downside is you cant really add a drainback feature so you will most likely have to drain the can manually after awhile, depending how much oil actually makes it into the can.
I did a lot of research on this before setting mine up. But since I dont have the proper tools to drill/tap/weld, I opted for my current setup. It works fine, but I dont like the idea of oil being removed from the system under acceleration and having to drain back once slowing down or stopped. There is a HUGE "evacuation" thread in the FI forum on HT with various tests done to see which works best.
well one thing I dont really understand is suspension spring rates and correct valving for shocks. The roads up here arent TOO bad. If they are rough, I just deal with it. Like I said its only a weekend car, occasionally Ill drive it to work on a nice day.
I just think my stock shocks w/ H&R sports are starting to go soft on me. Its not too bouncy yet but definitely feels saggy in the rear sometimes. and also because I like to drag race Id like it nice and stiff in the rear and height adjustable to help with much weight transfer off the line.
I may have to pick these up and give them a shot early XMAS present for me!!
RTW DC2 wrote:well one thing I dont really understand is suspension spring rates and correct valving for shocks. The roads up here arent TOO bad. If they are rough, I just deal with it. Like I said its only a weekend car, occasionally Ill drive it to work on a nice day.
I just think my stock shocks w/ H&R sports are starting to go soft on me. Its not too bouncy yet but definitely feels saggy in the rear sometimes. and also because I like to drag race Id like it nice and stiff in the rear and height adjustable to help with much weight transfer off the line.
I may have to pick these up and give them a shot early XMAS present for me!!
I can get you in contact with Jim or Al over at PIC. But, the shop is an authorized dealer.
I'm still learning a bit about it too, by no means do I know ALL about it.
RTW DC2 wrote:its pretty simple jim. the purpose of the catch can is to "evacuate" pressure in the crankcase. some ways work well but also get oil involved, other ways are better which Ill explain below.
currently, I removed my stock PCV system, plugged the hole for the black box, and ran 2 5/8in hoses from the back of the block (freeze plugs were replaced with the Honda port plugs) to the can (generic Ebay can, $7). I then drilled a hole in the top of the can, and added a small breather filter. I ran it this way for awhile, but was filling the can after 2 pulls on the highway because I had no drainback and due to physics, oil was being pushed from the back of the block into the can under hard acceleration. so I added a drainback feature and no problems since. however, I would rather no oil at all enter the can, so I will be changing it completely soon to the method below.
optimally, you would want to tap into the front of the valve cover with 2 fittings (behind the baffles inside the cover), and run those two lines to a can with a breather on it. if you tap behind the baffles, the baffles will help keep oil out and only allow pressure to escape. only downside is you cant really add a drainback feature so you will most likely have to drain the can manually after awhile, depending how much oil actually makes it into the can.
I did a lot of research on this before setting mine up. But since I dont have the proper tools to drill/tap/weld, I opted for my current setup. It works fine, but I dont like the idea of oil being removed from the system under acceleration and having to drain back once slowing down or stopped. There is a HUGE "evacuation" thread in the FI forum on HT with various tests done to see which works best.
HTH!!
Wouldnt you take in less oil if you left your pcv in? Let it do its job and then run a hose to a catch can? Do you have any oil in your intake tube from the valve cover breather?
Dave B wrote:
I can get you in contact with Jim or Al over at PIC. But, the shop is an authorized dealer.
I'm still learning a bit about it too, by no means do I know ALL about it.
I dont need any contacts, thanks anyway. Im not that picky and dont know enough about suspension crap to really worry about it. We'll see how Santa Claus is this year.
Dave B wrote:
I can get you in contact with Jim or Al over at PIC. But, the shop is an authorized dealer.
I'm still learning a bit about it too, by no means do I know ALL about it.
I dont need any contacts, thanks anyway. Im not that picky and dont know enough about suspension crap to really worry about it. We'll see how Santa Claus is this year.