Need a good Shop to rebuild my head in So-Cal

[Nillard]

Hey Guys,

Ok, so I bought my 2000 R about 4 months ago... and after seeing how much oil it goes through, I want to get the head re-built. I figure thats a good place to start. I live in San Diego, and wanted to ask if any of you guys know of any trust worthy shops in So-cal that specialize in Honda motors. Im willing to drive up to LA to drop it off if need be. Any suggestions? Thanks

[coolhandluke]

Replacing the valve seals in the head could repair your oil burning issues, but you may have more serious issues with your rings. Have you performed a full leak down test? A full leakdown test will help discern if it is the valves or the rings.

[Bbasso]

how much oil does it go through?

[Nillard]

I'd say it uses about a quart ever 500-600 miles. I know the rings may be at partly at fault, but I wanted to start with the head because its something I can take care of in my own garage. Im not set up to remove the engine or drop the pistons out. If I find a block problem... I would rather buy a new short block and have the head rebuilt than just repair a ring problem anyways. Also, I have a feeling the cams aren't stock, so i'm hoping to figure out what kind they are and prob switch them out for stock cams while the head is out.

The car does seem to have a lot of power still... so I guess its wishfull thinking that its just the head.

Any ideas on a head shop?

[Nillard]

Replacing the valve seals in the head could repair your oil burning issues, but you may have more serious issues with your rings. Have you performed a full leak down test? A full leakdown test will help discern if it is the valves or the rings.

I took my car to a local honda repair shop and the owner of the shop told me a leak down test won't tell me if its a ring or valve seal issue. Was he just trying to get me to let him rebuild the engine?

A leak down test is just a compression test? or is it something else?
Thanks for the help

[Bbasso]

Most of the people including me have came to the conclusion that the rings are usually the problem when it comes to oil comsumpsion.
I know it's my rings because when I had the entire head (minus cams) replaced the problem still exsisted. I only know of one person who got lucky and changed the valve giudes and reduced his oil consumpsion.
Btw I can burn off 2QTs of oil in 25 mins on track or if I take it very easy I can go about 600-700 miles before I loose a QT.
Under what conditions do you see the oil burn off? How is the back bumper/rear of the car look after 500 miles?

[Bbasso]

Leak down & Compression tests are two different things. I suggest researching to see what the differences are for your own knowledge.

As for the results of a leak down test, he's sort of right. It won't say where it's coming from but will tell you if there is a problem. When I did a compression test before the head replacement, it was 230-235 across all 4. but my oil burning was not much different then today. I don't even want to do a leakdown test until I have money for rebuilding... I know the results will scare me LOL...
I just drive it easy, check the oil before I start it each day. If you can drive it easy which kinda sucks when you have a car that begs to be beaten, it should be ok for a while longer without getting into the motor for repairs.
I'm at 94,000 miles and have retired the car from track events because of fear that I'll blow it up. I simply can't afford if it does. But it still is my only car and I use it for everything, I just keep extra oil with me and check it requently.

[Bbasso]

Oh and I've been burning oil since the first week after I bought the car new from the dealer...

[Nillard]

Most of the people including me have came to the conclusion that the rings are usually the problem when it comes to oil comsumpsion.
I know it's my rings because when I had the entire head (minus cams) replaced the problem still exsisted. I only know of one person who got lucky and changed the valve giudes and reduced his oil consumpsion.
Btw I can burn off 2QTs of oil in 25 mins on track or if I take it very easy I can go about 600-700 miles before I loose a QT.
Under what conditions do you see the oil burn off? How is the back bumper/rear of the car look after 500 miles?

Bumper looks fine... never noticed anything. No carbon or oil to speak of. I have yet to track my car, so this oil consumption would be from normal driving around town and the occational redline through 2-3 gears. I had no idea these problems were so common. I have a friend with a 2001 R and he doesn't have any oil burning issues at all. He also doesn't track it at all and babys it pretty much always. Might be the reason...

I do notice that the oil gets dirty very fast. I have been trying to change my oil more often hoping to clean the engine out. After 500 or so miles, the oil on the dipstick is pretty dark and after 1000 miles its black.

The whole cam thing is kinda bugging me though. I wouldn't mind finding out what cams are in it and getting the stock ones in.

[Dave_B]

First, what oil do you use? If Mobil 1, try switching to another brand. I have heard people drop some of the oil consumption just by switching oils (not weights, just the brands)

Secondly, I would suggest (if your going to spend the money anyway) sticking with your OEM VIN matching block than getting a new shortblock. This keeps the resale up later on if you ever decide to sell.

I'm with the general consenses that it's most likely not in the head, but rather the rings.

[Nillard]

First, what oil do you use? If Mobil 1, try switching to another brand. I have heard people drop some of the oil consumption just by switching oils (not weights, just the brands)

Secondly, I would suggest (if your going to spend the money anyway) sticking with your OEM VIN matching block than getting a new shortblock. This keeps the resale up later on if you ever decide to sell.

I'm with the general consenses that it's most likely not in the head, but rather the rings.

I bought the car back in october, and changed the oil to mobile 1 synthetic. I started to notice that the car went through a lot of oil, so 1500 miles later, I changed the oil to castrol GTX conv oil... mainly because I was sick of paying $7.00 a quart every 500-600 miles as I had to keep adding oil.

Im about 800 miles into this last oil change and the oil consumption is the same. But, the oil is cheaper... so its not as big of a deal. If I do take it to the track, i'll end up putting synthetic in it.

as for the shortblock... I never thought of it that way. I guess that does make sense. Thanks for the input!

[guymosiris]

Where in San Diego are you located at? I would suggest replacing the valvestem seals first before diving into a shortblock rebuild. They're inexpensive and can save you the money/headache if it turns out to be the seals. They can be replaced in your own garage in a few hours and theres ways where you dont need compressed air. If it turns out you need a rebuild, I can help you with that for cheap (I'm in SD as well) Ive been rebuilding blown B series motors in my garage for a little extra cash (college student).

As for a shop reference, I just sent my head to a guy named John at Costa Mesa R&D for some combustion chamber work, Ive seen his work on YouTube and decided to contact him, very nice guy. He makes a trip to Qualcomm (AutoX) once a month if you want to talk to him in person.

And for the cams, the correct way to identify cams are to get them measured, but if you just want to tell whether they're oem or aftermarket... take the cams out and take a picture of the distributor/solenoid side and post them. Different cams have different markings/rings on them. Hope this helps and good luck!

[Nillard]

Where in San Diego are you located at? I would suggest replacing the valvestem seals first before diving into a shortblock rebuild. They're inexpensive and can save you the money/headache if it turns out to be the seals. They can be replaced in your own garage in a few hours and theres ways where you dont need compressed air. If it turns out you need a rebuild, I can help you with that for cheap (I'm in SD as well) Ive been rebuilding blown B series motors in my garage for a little extra cash (college student).

As for a shop reference, I just sent my head to a guy named John at Costa Mesa R&D for some combustion chamber work, Ive seen his work on YouTube and decided to contact him, very nice guy. He makes a trip to Qualcomm (AutoX) once a month if you want to talk to him in person.

And for the cams, the correct way to identify cams are to get them measured, but if you just want to tell whether they're oem or aftermarket... take the cams out and take a picture of the distributor/solenoid side and post them. Different cams have different markings/rings on them. Hope this helps and good luck!

I live In Rancho Bernardo... but am in east county daily for work. To be honest, I have no experience with heads, and would not be very quick at removing the cams just to take a picture. But, I am interested in your help to get the motor running better. I have a feeling the cams that are in it are Turbo Cams... and the only real reason I say that is I found the bumper area in front of the radiator cut up to make room for an intercooler. Plus, you can't hear Vtec at all. Not even a little bit. So, I would really like to get the right cams in it at the very least. If your serious about helping, let me know. I'd appreciate any help your willing to give. Thanks for the info!

[guymosiris]

Wow, I'm in Rancho Penasquitos. Yeah I could swing by and help you check out the cams if you'de like. I also have a compression tester if you havnt already done so. PM me your number and a prefered time/date. I'm free all week except thursday night starting at 6pm (class).