ITRCA

i got a electrical load detected on my type r, just wondering what i could do to figure out exactly what it is in the car the has the failure, my acura dealership doesn't even know, the car is idealing at 1040 rpm and is running rich.

I am probably not the person to diagnose but we will definitely need some more info and input.

Also what year is it. Sounds like warranty is in order.

It's actually located bellow your fuse box, but I believe you actually need to replace the whole fuse box, though I'm not really sure. Some symptoms of your electrical load sensor going would be a fluxuating tach or speedometer, or the diming of your electrical system, ie. your lights, or stereo or something like that at idle. Wish I could see it, and I could tell you, if youre in south FLA, let me know. Good Luck with it.

Later,
Aj

the car is a 98 , 30,000 miles on it, it use to have a supercharger and vtec controller on it, when i bought it, the car was returned back to normal but had the engine light on since i owned it, i have since then put a vtec controller back on it, hoping i would be able to tune the car back to the right enrichment. but i am afraid to play with it to much since i am not able to get to a dyno right away. i have been driving like this for about 5000 miles or so and i am just worried my vavles are taking a harsh beating, not too worried about the idel, but the richness of the car bothers me, plus i know i am lacking hp running this way. i just wish there was a scope or something i could use to locate this problem in my electrical system?

You are associating one problem with another, the running rich thing, just lean it out a little, just dont go more then like four or five percent across the board, even less past 7K, until you can get to a dyno assuming your pretty close to stock, as far as your valves, running rich is safer for you motor then running lean, your valves shouldn't be affected at all any way, and what does this all have to do with a electrical load sensor????

Aj

i just figured that the reason my cel 20 is coming on is because something with one of my sensors is screwed, like oxygen or something.

I think you are missing the point, there is something called a vehicle load sensor, or electrical load sensor, depending on what type of computer you plug your code reader into, that needs to be replaced if you threw a code that says you need a new Electrical load sensor, or vehicle load sensor. I think the snap-on diagnosis calls it a Vehicle load sensor, and the Honda computer calls it an Electrical load sensor, either way it's located below your fuse box, which I think when you replace it, it comes with a whole new fuse box. Though ussualy when they go bad, there are some pretty funky symptoms, other then running rich. Good luck. Later!

Aj

Could be a O2 sensor if your running a testpipe...or a Knock sensor CEL

Code 20 is neither knock sensor or O2, it seems like it's in your head, go to the dyno, tune it out, if you still have problems, worry about it then!!

Aj