How-To: Front wheel bearing replacement-wheel stud install
Posted: April 28th, 2010, 10:50 am
Here is my famous(?) wheel bearing install!
Remove wheel/caliper/rotor/abs line/brake line stay.
Remove 32mm nut and the 3-17mm nuts.
Remove the hub/spindle assembly.
Honda wheel bearing part number:
44300-S5A-004
ARP Wheel stud part number:
100-7708 (12mm x 1.50" Late model GM) (this was not on back order and comes in a pack of 5)
Bearing install:
28 Ton 32" mechanical press
Nasty mess:
Getting ready to press the hub out of the old bearing
Inside of the bearing after the hub is pushed out
Hub after removal.
Remove the large 'c' clip.
Press the bearing out of the spindle.
We-todd-did way to remove the inner race from the hub (Thanks D!).
Use the grinder to cut 3 notches in the race and pull it off (mine needed a little heat to move).
The hub is clean and ready for install (after the new studs are put in).
Once the old bearing is out of of the spindle... clean everything and install the new bearing. (there is only one way for it to go in).
Install the 'c' clip.
The metal seal of the bearing goes inboard.
With the new bearing already in the spindle.... press the hub into the new bearing.
Take care to make sure you push on the inner part of the race.
Seated fully.
Wheel stud time:
OE vs ARP
The hub after the stock stud was pressed out.
The first one trial fit.
Using a 15/16" deep well socket for stud removal (let the stud fall into the socket) and install (let the stud end stick into the opening for the ratchet).
All done with the studs. :bling:
I did drill out the hub with a 500/1000" (1/2")
drill bit to make the stud install easier. There was plenty of resistance when they were being pushed in and the better knurl pattern on the ARP studs will make sure they stay in place.
Pile of parts (new/old) and the sockets (2-1/2", 2-7/16", 2", 1-3/4", 32mm, 15/16" deep) used to help with the pressing:
Putting stuff back tgether:
Pile of tools at the car
Install is the reverse of the removal process.
:BLING:
Make sure you stake the 32mm nut in place!
Info:
-make sure you don't mess up the new bearing by pressing in the wrong place (ie. stressing the new bawl bearings)
-I had to tap the sp00n lugs to clean up the threads before they would pull onto the new studs
-This is my second drivers side wheel bearing (one at ~29,000 miles this one at 61,000 miles)
-Track mileage and brake heat kill bearings
-I plan to replace the passengers side bearing soon to see what shape the bearing is in and to install 5 more studs.
Remove wheel/caliper/rotor/abs line/brake line stay.
Remove 32mm nut and the 3-17mm nuts.
Remove the hub/spindle assembly.
Honda wheel bearing part number:
44300-S5A-004
ARP Wheel stud part number:
100-7708 (12mm x 1.50" Late model GM) (this was not on back order and comes in a pack of 5)
Bearing install:
28 Ton 32" mechanical press
Nasty mess:
Getting ready to press the hub out of the old bearing
Inside of the bearing after the hub is pushed out
Hub after removal.
Remove the large 'c' clip.
Press the bearing out of the spindle.
We-todd-did way to remove the inner race from the hub (Thanks D!).
Use the grinder to cut 3 notches in the race and pull it off (mine needed a little heat to move).
The hub is clean and ready for install (after the new studs are put in).
Once the old bearing is out of of the spindle... clean everything and install the new bearing. (there is only one way for it to go in).
Install the 'c' clip.
The metal seal of the bearing goes inboard.
With the new bearing already in the spindle.... press the hub into the new bearing.
Take care to make sure you push on the inner part of the race.
Seated fully.
Wheel stud time:
OE vs ARP
The hub after the stock stud was pressed out.
The first one trial fit.
Using a 15/16" deep well socket for stud removal (let the stud fall into the socket) and install (let the stud end stick into the opening for the ratchet).
All done with the studs. :bling:
I did drill out the hub with a 500/1000" (1/2")
drill bit to make the stud install easier. There was plenty of resistance when they were being pushed in and the better knurl pattern on the ARP studs will make sure they stay in place.Pile of parts (new/old) and the sockets (2-1/2", 2-7/16", 2", 1-3/4", 32mm, 15/16" deep) used to help with the pressing:
Putting stuff back tgether:
Pile of tools at the car
Install is the reverse of the removal process.
:BLING:
Make sure you stake the 32mm nut in place!
Info:
-make sure you don't mess up the new bearing by pressing in the wrong place (ie. stressing the new bawl bearings)
-I had to tap the sp00n lugs to clean up the threads before they would pull onto the new studs
-This is my second drivers side wheel bearing (one at ~29,000 miles this one at 61,000 miles)
-Track mileage and brake heat kill bearings
-I plan to replace the passengers side bearing soon to see what shape the bearing is in and to install 5 more studs.