mazda millenia rims to autocross
mazda millenia rims to autocross
I'm curious is anyone using the mazda millenia 15x6 rims to autocross for their itr? If so are they really as light as this site says at only 11.5 lbs. Also I know the bore for those mazda rims is 3mm bigger than for the itr. If anyone uses these millenia rims did you have to use some type of a spacer ring to take up the 3mm difference and where did you get that ring. Thanks
I was told at EXPO that those are the rims to use and that they are legal in SCCA stock class.
I'm presently looking for some at a reasonable price, but there was no mention of spacers.If the bore concerns you, just be sure to cross tighten the bolts and they will self center...besides at auto-x speeds, you won't notice wobbles.
I'm presently looking for some at a reasonable price, but there was no mention of spacers.If the bore concerns you, just be sure to cross tighten the bolts and they will self center...besides at auto-x speeds, you won't notice wobbles.
The millenia rims are not hub centric on the ITR hubs. BBQ's right that the lugs will center the rim. Just make sure you get them good and snug (not torqued) before you lower the car onto the wheels. Keep the jack supporting the car while you torque, and you'll be fine.
The wheels are legal for SCCA DS since they are the same size and offset as the original ITR rims. I'll try to remember to have them weighed when I swap them around next week, since I'm kind of curious what they really are.
The spacers are two fold...
Regardless of the tire size, they increase the track which provides a small increase in track.
They are NEEDED for tires wider than 205 to keep the tire from rubbing the inner fender on the front, and the LCA on the rear.
NOTE: They have no affect on centering the rim, they are .25" thick with holes for the lug studs to pass through and a clearance hole for the hub.
There are two common tire setup's...
1) 225 fronts and 205 rears for grippy surfaces such as concrete. The 205's help the car's tail to rotate.
2) 225's all around for surfaces with less ultimate grip such as asphalt.
I hope this helps, and happy racing.
As soon as you pass the start line, you are only losing time.
Minimize how much time you lose. It's not just going faster, it's
spending less time on the course.
The wheels are legal for SCCA DS since they are the same size and offset as the original ITR rims. I'll try to remember to have them weighed when I swap them around next week, since I'm kind of curious what they really are.
The spacers are two fold...
Regardless of the tire size, they increase the track which provides a small increase in track.
They are NEEDED for tires wider than 205 to keep the tire from rubbing the inner fender on the front, and the LCA on the rear.
NOTE: They have no affect on centering the rim, they are .25" thick with holes for the lug studs to pass through and a clearance hole for the hub.
There are two common tire setup's...
1) 225 fronts and 205 rears for grippy surfaces such as concrete. The 205's help the car's tail to rotate.
2) 225's all around for surfaces with less ultimate grip such as asphalt.
I hope this helps, and happy racing.
As soon as you pass the start line, you are only losing time.
Minimize how much time you lose. It's not just going faster, it's
spending less time on the course.
Read 13.4 of the stock rules, it states;
same width & diameter
offset within .25" (including wheel spacers if applicable)
resultant change in track is allowed.
From this, you can use .25" spacer's, since the millenia wheels are right on the money for offset.
Without the spacer's, you'll rub on the inner fender (near the front where the lower plastic tray ties in) when you've got the wheels hard over. You should also look into using longer studs, although I'm not sure if that's required.
If you haven't seen it already, check out the autocross guide, it's pretty good.
http://www.itrca.com/FAQ/track/autox.php
If you're located in the NW, let me know and we can try and hook up at an event.
same width & diameter
offset within .25" (including wheel spacers if applicable)
resultant change in track is allowed.
From this, you can use .25" spacer's, since the millenia wheels are right on the money for offset.
Without the spacer's, you'll rub on the inner fender (near the front where the lower plastic tray ties in) when you've got the wheels hard over. You should also look into using longer studs, although I'm not sure if that's required.
If you haven't seen it already, check out the autocross guide, it's pretty good.
http://www.itrca.com/FAQ/track/autox.php
If you're located in the NW, let me know and we can try and hook up at an event.
Do you know what size they are? I'm interested in the size as it relates to rubbing.
I have 205/50-15 Azenis for the street and don't have any problem with rubbing. I only use the spacers for autocross and I think it's only the 225's and maybe 215's (don't know who makes for 15" rim) that will rub.
Thanks.
I have 205/50-15 Azenis for the street and don't have any problem with rubbing. I only use the spacers for autocross and I think it's only the 225's and maybe 215's (don't know who makes for 15" rim) that will rub.
Thanks.
The hot setup is definitely 5mm spacers in the front of the car with 225 Hoosiers or Victos.bbqman wrote:When you mention spacers, are these DS legal and up to what point.
I was told that to be competitive at Topeka, you need the 225's up front, so I think that is my plan, but I wasn't aware of spacers. Can you elaborate?
I understand the rubbing aspect, but are we not limited in offset too?
It is driver preference as to whether he wants to use 205s in the rear or 225s with a 5mm spacer.
Personally I use 205s in the rear, but may move to using 225s all around so that I can rotate my tires.
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Millenia Wheels
I have a set of Millenia wheels with used Kumho V700 tires sizes 205 & 225 with spacers machined to 1/4" for fronts and lug nuts. I will be selling them if my car sells to a non autocrosser. The wheels are 11.5 lbs (4 lbs lighter than stock wheels).
I may be selling my koni adjustable shocks and Mugen SS exhaust too.
I live in Las Vegas and can deliver to Southern CA in 2 weeks.
marcfs71@netscape.net
97 ITR #182 <-------- For Sale $17k
I may be selling my koni adjustable shocks and Mugen SS exhaust too.
I live in Las Vegas and can deliver to Southern CA in 2 weeks.
marcfs71@netscape.net
97 ITR #182 <-------- For Sale $17k
Re: mazda millenia rims to autocross
I ran GS (now DS) in my ITR with the Millenia wheels (two different styles). I also ran the 225/205 staggered combo and 205's all around (kumho's and BFG's). I ran with and without spacers.
IMO the spacers are not necessary. I had more problems with studs breaking with the spacers and the additional offset is minimal. I still got nearly the same amount of rubbing in front (none in rear) with or without the spacers. With Millenia wheels and without spacers, the car was good enough for a couple top 10 trophy spots at Nats. And trust me, they weren't even close to being perfect runs. So if you have your heart set on them, get 'em, but otherwise, I wouldn't worry about finding some.
I would also whole heartedly recommend the 225/205 combo regardless of surface. The car handled much better with the wider tires up front, despite the extra weight and taller gearing.
IMO the spacers are not necessary. I had more problems with studs breaking with the spacers and the additional offset is minimal. I still got nearly the same amount of rubbing in front (none in rear) with or without the spacers. With Millenia wheels and without spacers, the car was good enough for a couple top 10 trophy spots at Nats. And trust me, they weren't even close to being perfect runs. So if you have your heart set on them, get 'em, but otherwise, I wouldn't worry about finding some.
I would also whole heartedly recommend the 225/205 combo regardless of surface. The car handled much better with the wider tires up front, despite the extra weight and taller gearing.
Jeff Brown
98 ITR #801
98 ITR #801
Re: mazda millenia rims to autocross
I finally got around to weighing these guys.
Unfortunately I was unable to weigh the wheel itself, so I weighed a wheel/tire combo, and a tire only (same size)
The results are (drum roll please)...
... using my old bathroom scale
Wheel/tire 30.5 - Tire only 19.5 = Wheel 11 lbs.
Based on this, I think the commonly published 11.5 lbs in accurate.
Happy autocrossing.
Unfortunately I was unable to weigh the wheel itself, so I weighed a wheel/tire combo, and a tire only (same size)
The results are (drum roll please)...
... using my old bathroom scale
Wheel/tire 30.5 - Tire only 19.5 = Wheel 11 lbs.
Based on this, I think the commonly published 11.5 lbs in accurate.
Happy autocrossing.