ITRCA

I am really tight for money after buying this. i had a 02 si before this and basically went really upside down on the trade in to get my 01 type r. however i really need to know how to get power out of it with mods going the cheapest route. i want exhaust to make it sound meaner but i know just an exhaust isn't going to do anything. may make my hpdrop with out a i/h but if you could help I would really appreciate it. also I was thinnking about buying some rsx rims for it where my type r rims have some scuffs. do you think this is a bad idea thank you once again

Phil

an R doesnt deserve 'the cheap route'. Either put parts on it that the car deserves or get your Si back. jm2c

My first mods
Injen SRI
5zigen Fireball (wish I bought a T1R)
JDM DC header (if you dont get a JDM, keep it stock)
SMSP cat (you SHOULD NOT modify the stock cat to fit a 2.5" collector, SMSP is 2.5")

Next on my mods wish list (besides TIRES!):
Apex-i VAFC2
Tanabe Sustec Pro/C IIs coilovers(best bang for the buck under $1000)
AEBS IM
inlinefour TB

If you got the money (balling) get a DRAG III turbo

my verdict: If you aint got the money, keep it stock

dont upgrade with cheap parts wait for money and do it right. as far as the rims go the rsx are allright but there is alot of factory choices that are out now or very soon. the tsx rims would look great on the R also the new s2K
17 inch rims are real nice. thats the 04 model. even the hfp kit for the 02 and up si has a nice 5 star 17 incher.
my 2 cents

yup, don't take the cheap route on your car. the end result will usually come out to be a downgrade instead of and up grade. get to know your R alittle more before you jump into doing things.
and as far as getting an exhaust just for it to sound meaner best thing to do is save up for a part you really want, and that will really work. people around here and HT will know. there's miles of archived tests on just about every product for the ITR. (with a big shortage of the JUN products i use) hehe

take your time! it's not a EF hatch

yah i agree. either save up or just leave it stock.. even stock the power is pretty good.

98cwitr wrote: Next on my mods wish list (besides TIRES!):
Apex-i VAFC2
Tanabe Sustec Pro/C IIs coilovers(best bang for the buck under $1000)
AEBS IM
inlinefour TB

Um....first off your first set of mods was ok, but the second set leaves a lot to be desired I think. The suspension mod is fine, the VAFC is the cheap way out...but its ok. Lastly, the intake manifold is a pretty much worthless mod as your looking to not gain much flow over a stock R manifold...and the inlarged throttle body is absolutely worthless unless you are upgrading your cams. The money spent on those two mods would be better spent on underdrive pulleys by AEM and perhaps a s100 hondata system.

As far as the first persons post, the best two mods you could begin with are a JDM 4-1 header and a carsound race cat. Your stock type R exhaust is pretty comparable to a cheap aftermarket exhaust already. It has virtually no bottlenecks and is far superior to any other Integras exhaust stock. Lastly, dont put RSX rims on your car, the stock 15's will handle better, accelerate better, and save you money on tires. If youre worried about image, just have them re-powdercoated in bronze or something

otb2000itr wrote:

98cwitr wrote: Next on my mods wish list (besides TIRES!):
Apex-i VAFC2
Tanabe Sustec Pro/C IIs coilovers(best bang for the buck under $1000)
AEBS IM
inlinefour TB

Um....first off your first set of mods was ok, but the second set leaves a lot to be desired I think. The suspension mod is fine, the VAFC is the cheap way out...but its ok. Lastly, the intake manifold is a pretty much worthless mod as your looking to not gain much flow over a stock R manifold...and the inlarged throttle body is absolutely worthless unless you are upgrading your cams. The money spent on those two mods would be better spent on underdrive pulleys by AEM and perhaps a s100 hondata system.

As far as the first persons post, the best two mods you could begin with are a JDM 4-1 header and a carsound race cat. Your stock type R exhaust is pretty comparable to a cheap aftermarket exhaust already. It has virtually no bottlenecks and is far superior to any other Integras exhaust stock. Lastly, dont put RSX rims on your car, the stock 15's will handle better, accelerate better, and save you money on tires. If youre worried about image, just have them re-powdercoated in bronze or something

The AEBS actually put a 5whp on a ITR untuned and on a stock motor (proof: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=695304 and http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=631044 and http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=617029) I have more threads if needed. And an IM isnt as good unless port matched with the TB, which the 70mm is 2mm over the matched amount. Than you for reading!

i want to thank all of you for your replies. so jdm header it is and a underdrive pulley. lets start saving. oh another question, what is the best way to keep my R in my hands. seeing that I don't have a garage. and to pay for a garage would be 130 a month. i checked every where. i am sure your guys know what the theifts know how to bypass and what they don't. any help would be thankful.

a good alarm (high DBs) and a tracking device, jm2c

ok i am a little new to this what is a jm2c. and how much for it. by the way when should i shift in my R when normal day to day driving

i just realized that is just my 2 cents dumb me.

98cwitr wrote: The AEBS actually put a 5whp on a ITR untuned and on a stock motor (proof: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=695304 and http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=631044 and http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=617029) I have more threads if needed. And an IM isnt as good unless port matched with the TB, which the 70mm is 2mm over the matched amount. Than you for reading!

Ok...I know the throttle body/manifold combo is bound to give you some horsepower, but my point is that it's money spent unwisely. The AEBS manifold is a good deal for those who don't have Type R manifolds already, but if you read up on it, they say the manifold tends to work best in forced induction and nitrous applications. And a 70mm TB is best used with upgraded cams, as larger TB's are typically used in major all motor applications. You don't need to spend roughly $400 to $500 to get just over 5 whp, it could be done more efficiently.

01BlackR...you cant forget to get an upgraded cat (carsound is preferred) with the JDM header. The DC Sports JDM header has a 2.5 inch collector as opposed to your 2.25 inch stock collector...it wont fit. Secondly, this header is not CARB legal, which means if youre in cali, youre screwed. Just a heads up...lastly, look into some sort of intake system....a lot of people here like short rams, but having had both, I prefer AEM cold air intakes...

also, please pay the $130 a month for a garage. if you don't, most likely someone who wants it will see it, and take it. our cars are the #1 cars looked for by those asshole thieves.

find a friend and pay them to park your car in their garage, or pay for a garage. its still safer than the streets.

the only garage space that i can find for 120 a month is a garage building where anyone could park their car. i am also scared to leave it there seing that i won't be around when the alarm goes off. and the garage is not held responsible.

if its not to cold you should honestly sleep in it I know I would never sleep if mine had to park outside. Hell I set the alarm in my garage! my
first investment would be a great alarm and some kind of lo-jack system
so if it gets stolen you can get it back. I have a lo jack with early warning and its suppose to call one of six preset numbers if my car moves without my permission(it uses a responder in conjunction with the lo-jack. so if the car moves without my keys in the car it will set it off. it was $995. its alot but if my car is not in my sights and they by pass my alarm and my break lock I will be notified. its says within 15 to 20 minutes then the lojack can be activated. I know you can take alot in 15 to 20 minutes but the less time they have the better. in vegas most good thiefes take a car and park it in a remote area for a day to make sure it doesnt have lojack then go back and strip it! my 2 cents

otb2000itr wrote:

98cwitr wrote: Next on my mods wish list (besides TIRES!):
Apex-i VAFC2
Tanabe Sustec Pro/C IIs coilovers(best bang for the buck under $1000)
AEBS IM
inlinefour TB

Um....first off your first set of mods was ok, but the second set leaves a lot to be desired I think. The suspension mod is fine, the VAFC is the cheap way out...but its ok. Lastly, the intake manifold is a pretty much worthless mod as your looking to not gain much flow over a stock R manifold...and the inlarged throttle body is absolutely worthless unless you are upgrading your cams. The money spent on those two mods would be better spent on underdrive pulleys by AEM and perhaps a s100 hondata system.

As far as the first persons post, the best two mods you could begin with are a JDM 4-1 header and a carsound race cat. Your stock type R exhaust is pretty comparable to a cheap aftermarket exhaust already. It has virtually no bottlenecks and is far superior to any other Integras exhaust stock. Lastly, dont put RSX rims on your car, the stock 15's will handle better, accelerate better, and save you money on tires. If youre worried about image, just have them re-powdercoated in bronze or something

Funny you should make mention of his modification plan. I would tend to agree and disagree with both of you. The suspension choice sucks. The last thing you want to do is cheap out on suspension. THat is the easiest way to modify an R and downgrade/go slower. If you want to discuss not cheaping out this is the category I woudl put on top. If we want to debate suspension 98cw shoudl make a new post as not to hijack anymore

As for the VAFC I'd say it is a vaible option, just won't ever make as much as a Hondata or Power FC for the money.

I do agree with otb about the manifold and TB. You are barking up a high $/hp modification where there are better places to look. Check out Austin's post on HT where he sold his manifold because for what it cost he was able purchase other things that made more power for a good bit less cost. He also saw almost no power gain from what he has said so remember results will vary. Stock Intake Mani is a good setup and before AEBS it was one of the prefered setups for those who didn;t already have it's design on their car.

98, why did you chose an SRI other than paranioa and myths about hydrolock? And why Injen over J's if you are dead set on an SRI?

We can debate what might be better but the only thing I will fuss about is the suspension. No single engine mod alone will make big power on an R. (Except maybe a $1000+ header)

Trey wrote:

otb2000itr wrote:

98cwitr wrote: Next on my mods wish list (besides TIRES!):
Apex-i VAFC2
Tanabe Sustec Pro/C IIs coilovers(best bang for the buck under $1000)
AEBS IM
inlinefour TB

Um....first off your first set of mods was ok, but the second set leaves a lot to be desired I think. The suspension mod is fine, the VAFC is the cheap way out...but its ok. Lastly, the intake manifold is a pretty much worthless mod as your looking to not gain much flow over a stock R manifold...and the inlarged throttle body is absolutely worthless unless you are upgrading your cams. The money spent on those two mods would be better spent on underdrive pulleys by AEM and perhaps a s100 hondata system.

As far as the first persons post, the best two mods you could begin with are a JDM 4-1 header and a carsound race cat. Your stock type R exhaust is pretty comparable to a cheap aftermarket exhaust already. It has virtually no bottlenecks and is far superior to any other Integras exhaust stock. Lastly, dont put RSX rims on your car, the stock 15's will handle better, accelerate better, and save you money on tires. If youre worried about image, just have them re-powdercoated in bronze or something

Funny you should make mention of his modification plan. I would tend to agree and disagree with both of you. The suspension choice sucks. The last thing you want to do is cheap out on suspension. THat is the easiest way to modify an R and downgrade/go slower. If you want to discuss not cheaping out this is the category I woudl put on top. If we want to debate suspension 98cw shoudl make a new post as not to hijack anymore

As for the VAFC I'd say it is a vaible option, just won't ever make as much as a Hondata or Power FC for the money.

I do agree with otb about the manifold and TB. You are barking up a high $/hp modification where there are better places to look. Check out Austin's post on HT where he sold his manifold because for what it cost he was able purchase other things that made more power for a good bit less cost. He also saw almost no power gain from what he has said so remember results will vary. Stock Intake Mani is a good setup and before AEBS it was one of the prefered setups for those who didn;t already have it's design on their car.

98, why did you chose an SRI other than paranioa and myths about hydrolock? And why Injen over J's if you are dead set on an SRI?

We can debate what might be better but the only thing I will fuss about is the suspension. No single engine mod alone will make big power on an R. (Except maybe a $1000+ header)

i did make a new post, no one has replied actually. I chose the Injen over Js because I didnt see a diff in hp and performance, only in looks and price.

see my sus. thread here http://www.itrca.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3389

PY 01-0972 wrote:if its not to cold you should honestly sleep in it I know I would never sleep if mine had to park outside. Hell I set the alarm in my garage! my
first investment would be a great alarm and some kind of lo-jack system
so if it gets stolen you can get it back. I have a lo jack with early warning and its suppose to call one of six preset numbers if my car moves without my permission(it uses a responder in conjunction with the lo-jack. so if the car moves without my keys in the car it will set it off. it was $995. its alot but if my car is not in my sights and they by pass my alarm and my break lock I will be notified. its says within 15 to 20 minutes then the lojack can be activated. I know you can take alot in 15 to 20 minutes but the less time they have the better. in vegas most good thiefes take a car and park it in a remote area for a day to make sure it doesnt have lojack then go back and strip it! my 2 cents

hmmm, i live in vegas too mang!! we've probably met before i'm assuming, if you do infact live in vegas? do you, or just talking about vegas?? i got a little somethin somethin for these asshole thieves if they wanna get brave

my car came with lowjack. i just need to get it activated. but that isn't going to really stopp anything i don't think. every one knows where it is i believe. i guess i am going to have to chain my car up to something.

there is like 40 places you can put lojack on your car so it would take a while for someone to find it and thiefs normally dont have the time. And
they dont know that you have it unless you put a sign that says
"this car equiped with lojack". having been a theft victim before its just
a nice insurance that you will get you car back in a timely manner and
it may or may not be that stripped. hey type R's really cannot be replaced.
esp if you are lucky like me and I found a real low milage R driven by a 60 year old! thats a once in a lifetime find IMO.

grrr PY 01-0972 look up