ITRCA

Well my front rotors are pretty bad so I'm looking to upgrade. I was looking to get the Brembo GT kit front the front (Calipers, lines, rotors, etc...) I wanted to do the back as well. Would you go with slotted or drilled rotors for the rear if any? And, why? I know the TypeR braking is super but if I wanted a bit more what would be the best route? I'm lose in the world of Braking and Suspension but I'm starting to learn a little more about it everyday. Something I think I should have done 1st (be able to slow down good before I go faster...lol)


Thanks,
Erik B

I would just upgrade your pads and fluid and see how that works, But if you have money to spare I only hear good things about the spoon calipers.

I have Axxis Ultimates pads, blue fluid and SS lines and can't be any happier for the money I spent.

I've heard the Spoonies only have 2 pistons and is not worth the money just like the Mugen's...anyone have any insight?

I vote for Brembo blanks all the way around with Cobalt GT Sport pads up front and Axxis Ultimates in the rear. Andie at Cobalt recommends this set-up to a lot of people that do autox/track stuff as well as daily drive their cars.

Trey has used Cobalt pads for quite a while, so maybe he can offer some more insight.

Erik B wrote:I've heard the Spoonies only have 2 pistons and is not worth the money just like the Mugen's...anyone have any insight?

Spoon's are 4 pot and are argueably worth the money. However, that's assuming this guy wants them for the track.

On the street there will be no difference minus some modulation but you wont notice a difference. If you do, it's in your head.

Thanks guys! Anyone else?

Hawk pads > Greenstuff pads? for street/auto-x?

Erik B wrote:Thanks guys! Anyone else?

I doubt you want to hear this, but I wouldn't do much w/the brakes.

I use Cobalt Friction VR pads on the track, with OEM calipers and OEM or Brembo blanks...everything works fine. These are the same Cobalt Friction compound that just won the 24 hours of Daytona.

For what it's worth, in H2 Honda Challenge, which doesn't allow brake modifications, the ITR brakes are renowned as unassailably the best available in Honda Challenge.

I have never had a problem with stock ITR brake systems on the track.

so I should (for function reasons) just get my rotors turned and upgrade the pads? My car shakes like hell under hard braking...

Erik B wrote:so I should (for function reasons) just get my rotors turned and upgrade the pads? My car shakes like hell under hard braking...

ITR brake rotors are so cheap, you might do as well just buying new Brembo blanks or whatever the cheapest thing is that you can find...even at Advance Auto or Autozone, believe it or not.

They're basically all the same.

However, remember that shaking under heavy braking doesn't necessarily mean that rotors are warped. It could just be material transfer onto the rotors. Something I like about the latest from Cobalt Friction is that material transfer just doesn't seem to happen, and the rotors last a long time.

I can't explain it...it just works.

hahaha I'm tracking thanks man

Street use pads =
- Hawk HPS (low dust & better than stock - autocross use)
- Hawk HPT+ (high dust, much better than stock & can handle hpde's)
- Hawk Blue fronts {HPS or HP+rear}(schwing! excellent eyeball extracting hpde pad - dirty crap though & can't remove dust if it gets wet!!)
- Cobalt sports (minimal dust, streetable front/rear or use as rear with specVR's)
- Cobalt specVR fronts{cobalt sport rear} (comparable to hawk blue but cleanable dust - actually handles higher temps than blues)

Rotors =
- NEVER bother turning rotors unless they are your street rotors. Extra metal means extra heat dissipation...
- Brembo blanks or the Autozone specials work just fine - TRUST me!!($17 each )

SS lines =
- I think the extra 'feel' of the ss lines is highly worth it imo...Goodridge are high quality ss lines. Techna-fit are ss lines + vinyl coating on the outside to keep all the dirt & crap from sticking in between the ss (I've been very happy with mine)

Fluid =
- Motul 600 (good stuff - no complaints - no boiling problems, REPLACE at least annually)
- SuperBlue/SuperGold (great stuff & because there are 2 different colors, it's pretty damn easy to tell when you've replace the old with the new - no boiling problems, REPLACE at least annually)

Speedbleeders =
- a MUST if you think you will ever need to diy. I've had mine for 4 years & no problems. I love these things.


WHEW - I'm tired now...time to get the donuts

This post needs to be a sticky some where for easy access. Thanks allot the info really helped.

My Porterfield R4 pads work awesome for the track/autocross days with the stock calipers along with Motul 600

not that my opinion matters much... but i also agree with many of the above replies; and that is to just get some replacement "blank" rotors all the way around, some decent pads as suggested in many of the above replies and some new fluid.

"IF" you like the look of something different vs. stock, as well as functional, and mave some $ to spend... the SPOON calipers would be a nice addition with some brembo blanks, new set of pads and fresh new fluid.

<-- who likes functional aftermarket brake set ups - even if they are overkill!

what about cross drilled and or slotted brmbos compared to oe blsnks? much of a difference?

All I've heard about the drilled and slotted is they crack faster. I personally on my H2 R will be running blanks either OEM or Brembo with ATE super blue fluid and Cobalt Spec VR's up front and Spec GT's in the back.

Stoptech BBK's

blown2001itr wrote:what about cross drilled and or slotted brmbos compared to oe blsnks? much of a difference?

Wild 1+ year bump

Cross drilled == DISASTER on track. Mine lasted 3 days before cracking. Everyone else agrees. BAD idea.

Slotted is a waste of time, money, etc.

Get cheap rotors for track use. Autozone is heralded as having the most available/cheapest front ITR rotors at $20-$30.

can you say "sticky" - done. Lots of good info here...although mine was the best

George Knighton wrote:

Erik B wrote:Thanks guys! Anyone else?

I doubt you want to hear this, but I wouldn't do much w/the brakes.

I use Cobalt Friction VR pads on the track, with OEM calipers and OEM or Brembo blanks...everything works fine. These are the same Cobalt Friction compound that just won the 24 hours of Daytona.

For what it's worth, in H2 Honda Challenge, which doesn't allow brake modifications, the ITR brakes are renowned as unassailably the best available in Honda Challenge.

I have never had a problem with stock ITR brake systems on the track.

We even used them in a very heated rally competition and they did really well. I have heard that an NSX two pot caliper just bolts up as well bur i do not have any information on pad selection and performance.
I auto x my 98 a bunch and run Hawk pads w/power stop drilled rotors to keep the head down and they are the best thing since sliced bread.

Bbasso wrote:I would just upgrade your pads and fluid and see how that works, But if you have money to spare I only hear good things about the spoon calipers.

I have Axxis Ultimates pads, blue fluid and SS lines and can't be any happier for the money I spent.

EEEKK!

wow that was a while ago...

For track use, I would not even consider this for myself anymore.

Due to the speed and heat these days...
I use Spec VRs in front, GT Sports in the rear along with ATE Blue fluid, SS lines and no heat shields. I recently used Spec B pads and found that they held up pretty well for one session but when the motor blew that was the end. So I can't give them a fair review.

For street... Most pads for me would work. I drive like a turtle these days. But I'm a lazy MoFo so I just leave the Spec Bs in there to eat up the last of the autozone rotors

Cobalt GTS and Brembo blanks all around with Motul 5.1 fluid and SS lines up front. Works great for me both on the street and at the track.

I had x-drilled and slotted rotors and they all cracked. If you wanted to go this route you'd have to make sure that the rotors you're buying are drilled and slotted FROM THE MANUFACTURER<------very important. Companies that take blanks and drill 'em out are no good.

All in all I think they are a waste and blanks will hold up fine. They are a wear item so just buy whatever is cheap.

Pads and fluid should be first on your list.

Bbasso wrote: I use Spec VRs in front, GT Sports in the rear along with ATE Blue fluid, SS lines and no heat shields.

This is exactly what I use also except with Axxis Ultimates in the rear. Great setup. The VRs are amazing once they're up to temp.

i just installed KVR slotted rotors for the front...i figured they would provide a harder bite into the pad under hard braking...am i wrong here?