ITRCA

I have a b18c5 in my rex. It has the pr3-3 head code and b18c5 block code with b16 cable tranny. The car had no o2 sensor hooked up until recently. Started coding for 02 when I installed 1 wire crx oxygen sensor. Replaced the distributor with jdm crx distributor because of engine harness.

I recently had a friend do the head gasket:complete head set. The car had oil leak from pan gasket due to lack of sealant on new gasket.
When we did head gasket, the previous gasket had silicone sealant all over it. It has gone all though the cooling ports on the head. Wasshed the head in solvent tank and got all the pieces out we could. Cylinder walls, pistons, cams, all mechanicals looked good...

Car ran fine for 2 days, then cut out at vtec like it hit a limiter during hard acceleraion at 5-6k rpms. Drove it calmly at 4 rpms to work.
After work, drove it calmly, then tried to hit vtec in 2nd gear. Took up to 9k, during deceleration it cut out. Temperature gauge fine. Oil level good. Coasted to stop and the car would turn over but would not start.
The engine does not start, and it sounds and looks labored on the cams during stroke(no cover). Car does not start...
If my friend put in cams backwards, what would happen(dickhead did not label them) ? Would the car start and run? My coil cap has a break in it and the rotor needs to be replaced.....
The engine codes for a electronic air control valve.....My car has no crank position sensor hooked up.
The car ran fine until the head gasket was installed, but would a car run with cams in backwards for 2 days?
After car broke down, towed to head gasket friend's house, had the oil pan gasket fixed. Oil pan had a decent amount of metal residue in oil. Also replaced the air control valve, and messed with the timing. My friend managed to get it to start momentarily by messing with the timing....
Now car is at acura dealership, gonna get raped$$$

THis was pretty hard to read. You jumped around a lot so it was hard to tell what happened when and to who.

It could be a timing belt broke, shreded or skipped a tooth. the not turning over thing sounds like the timing.

When you say cams in backwards I assume you mean swapped the intake and exhaust since installing the intake cam on the intake cams side and swapping ends is impossible. Never heard of a car running with them switched but can't imagine anyone trying this to find out.

How can you swap intake and exhaust camshafts? There's a slot on the end of the intake cam that slots onto the dis.

Good point. I was thinking about the slot when I mentoined flipping them but that woudl prevent swapping Int and exh too.

Could the poster clarify?

Yeah, I was thinking intake and exhaust was switched

Found out what had ahppened from acura today, two retainers had come off valves on intake cam on cylinder #4 . Tomorrow they're letting me know if the piston is intact, and if the head is salvagable. Tech said it was from overrevving. I had been takin engine to bout 9500rpms...

Why would you rev stock cams that high? First it can't handle it and 2 they stop making power around 8200 if tuned right. I can see going to 8900-9000 if you want to avoid shifting in Auto-x or drag racing but just to rev to 9500 is engine suicide.

Car didn't have rev limiter, and my shift light stopped working.
The engine is gone, turns out all four valves shot into piston. Metal debris throughout bottom end.
Bright side, Acura Tech is going to buy some of the engine parts though.
Freakin dealership quoted me $7000 for brand new type r installed...
LEARN FROM MY STUPIDITY , KEEP THE B18C5 ALIVE!!

I hear a lot of stories of people who just get a B18C5 engine and think they can rev to 10K. this is far from the truth on a stock motor. With the right tunning you can rev pretty high, but because the valvetrain and tunning is done well. aside from the other mechanical mishaps keep in mind that 8400rpm and that's it unless you have new valvesprings and retainers that are durable. Sorry to hear about your plight.

however the tach lies! i've gone well above 8400 RPM on my Type-R...

pUrExTc wrote:however the tach lies! i've gone well above 8400 RPM on my Type-R...

my tach reads the fuel cut @ 9,000, which i know is at least off by 200 rpms

Stock Type R valve train can handle up to 9000 RPM. can "handle" doesnt mean reliable all the time lol

Anything beyond, good luck man lol

Best bet, buy another motor for about 4Gs, and swap it out yourself and sell the old parts from your old motor.

Probably the best way to save money.

Give Noyan a call.

http://www.noyanusa.com