Test pipe

[Aj]

I put my long awated test pipe on my car, and got rid of my factory cat, thank god for states where they don't do emissions.

Any way, what a night and day difference, I know on a couple of friends stock ITR's, it made a little difference, but they said that they had barely noticed it other then a slight noice difference.

I supose running like almost 13:1 compression and aggresive cams on my car would be a compelling reason for such a drastic difference, I guess I just never really gave any thought to how restrictive the factory cat really was. Any way, the only down side I've noticed, is that my car sounds a little more ricey then it did before, nothing crazy, given that I still have stock exhaust, but still a side affect I'd like to ditch.

Any way, my next step is going to be either the Spoon or Type-One B pipe, I've talked to loads of people on the pro road/drag race circuit, and the general consensus is that the stock ITR muffler flows plenty for an all motor car, and sounds the least ricey out of all the mufflers out there, not to mention not ratling your teeth out from the vibration. I just have a very serious problem spending between 350-400 bucks on a piece of pipe with a resonator cut in. Oh well, guess I'll have to splurge.....

Any one know of any other nice B pipes the work with stock mufflers?????

Later,
Aj

[pUrExTc]

GReddy isn't so bad...deep sound, not too loud, and sounds very intimidating.

[Aj]

Yeah, but they don't make just a B-pipe, they only make whole exhaust systems.

I had a greddy Evo on my car for about six minutes and took it off, becuase it was the loudest worst sounding exhaust I'd heard till then. If you guys no any one looking for one, I still have it.......Flows great, I just can't stand the way it sounds.

Later,
Aj

[Rotaree]

Not up to date on the Honda world; is the B pipe a pipe that replaces the middle section of the exhaust; a pipe that replaces the cat in between the exhaust manifold and cat-back system?

I'm looking to get the woman something for her car for X-mas. I'd like to get her the full exhaust dealy but the system I would want for it is rather expensive. This sounds interesting.

Thanks.

Kyle

[Aj]

The B-pipe is the pipe that connects the cat and the muffler, though, it's not something you'de really need unless you have some extensive modification done.

Later,
Aj

[pUrExTc]

while on the subject...

when i was still stock, i ran my car really hard, and the header dislodged itself from the A-Pipe. My car was really loud. Anyway, I got it fixed, but dang...that's what your car will sound like running straight from the Header.

[Aj]

I don't know too many people running straight headers on their car, nor would i condone it, just too much noise, not to mention all the vibration. In fact, I don't recall even mentioning the possiblity, what gave you that idea?????

Later,
Aj

[pUrExTc]

it wasn't intentional. it happened over a period of time. running it hard up hills isn't good for your car (i guess); for long periods of time. the header had dislodged itself (unintentionally) from the A-Pipe. So, if you think about it, it's like running it straight from the Header. i will say, without any Exhaust system, it's less restrictive, and there is some power gain. At least it felt like it, or maybe the louder the car, the more power it "feelx" like it has. lolx.

[Aj]

I gotcha, but I wasn't implying to run with no exhaust, the test pipe, and B-pipe I was reffering to work with the factory muffler. I wouldn't conceive of ever running straight pipe, that would be way too loud!!!

Any way, Later,

Aj

[TypeRDriver1]

I have a 2 1/2 in. test pipe in my 2000 ITR and soon after I put it on the check engine light came on. It baffles me how knowone else hasn't experienced this as well. I have a 4 into 1 JDM header with a 2 3/4 in. collector leading to a 2 1/2 stainless steel test pipe which connects to a Tanabe Racing Medallion cat back 2 1/4 in. system. It is really, really loud.... but it came with a silencer, and with the silencer on, it almosts sounds stock again, and is still fast as hell.

[Jan Niemi]

Your secondary heated oxygen sensor is what triggered the fault code in your ECU. Remember that your OBD II ECU is expecting you to keep the cat, since the sensor is downstream from the cat. Luckily if the engine light doesn't bother you everything is fine. Your ECU does not make fuel management decisions based on feedback from the 2nd O2 sensor. It only makes decisions based on closed loop feedback from the primary O2 sensor, which is in the A-pipe upstream of the cat. My 2000 ITR turbo has no cat either, I just unplugged the O2 and put it in my toolbox. Eventually when my fuel tuning is done I will put a high flow cat back on the car and probably replace the secondary O2. Some older 96-98 Hondas, (which the EPA sued Honda for) the secondary O2 did not kick in the fault code at the proper voltage, so you could have conceivably run a test pipe with no engine light. In response to this action, Honda cars adhere to very strict emissions controls.