ITRCA

Okay. I would like to start this off by saying.... I probably should use the search function, but I am lazy and I love raising my post count. I am going for a NA build that is extremely reliable. So far I have purchased the HyTech big tube header, a Mugen intake, and I have the Hytech twin loop exhaust on order. I was wondering what should I buy for my next power adder based off everyone's experience?

budget?
Brake pads and brake fluid.

I am good on the pads, rotors, and brake fluid. My budget is somewhere around 1000USD and I am looking for some nice pieces to complement my setup.

soulassassin13 wrote:I am good on the pads, rotors, and brake fluid.

ok, what do you have?

Powerslot rotors and Hawk HP plus pads.

In my experince, anything more then the cheapest rotor is a waste of $.
Use them for now, but when you buy your next pair of rotors go the with cheaps.

I had those pads a long long time ago, I was not very impressed. I thought for the cost and performance the Axxis Ultimates were a better buy.

Go get Hondata, crome, neptune, ectune, Etc... Get a tune and the car will run like a champ. Maybe some skunk pro 1 cams.

After looking at all of the ECU modifications, the Hondata S300 setup looks to be my best bet.

Can I do Skunk 2 pro1 cams without modifying the valvetrain? I don't know much about valves, valve springs, and retainers, but I have heard if I go with a heavy cam I would be replacing retainers every 10-20Kmiles. Is there any truth to this? I know Bbasso beats the dead horse when it pertains to upgrading cams on stock pistons... Will I see any gain with just the cam?

DO NOT put Skunk2 Pro 1 cams in your car... yet...

You will need upgraded valve train, and a higher CR via pistons wouldn't hurt a bit either.

Since you said power adder... I too would look into tuning at this point. You've got the basic I/H/E covered, so get'r tuned and go from there.

What are your goals with this car? Stock bore? Staying NA? How much mechanical skills do you have? Would you do the work yourself, like tearing the engine down?

I'm running the Pro1 cams, and it does NOT idle like stock. I don't have Ti retainer, for reasons you just mentioned however I did get SuperTech valves and valve springs and a brand new set of OEM retainers. All the while, I also reshaped the combustion chambers to match my pistons (JDM P30's) and I also had the head ported to a stage 2.

What other goals do you have for the car? Drag racing? Auto X? HPDE's?

With that 1k, you could get a decent set of coilovers if the car will see track time.

Right now I only Auto-X competitively. I run track days on open run days. As for my suspension I am running Tein HA's. They have treated me well thus far and going any harder than that will probably ruin its daily drive ability IMO. I do plan to stay NA on a stock bore and I just want the best bang for my buck without ruining the caRs reliability.

As far as a tune goes I was really looking at Hondata for the ECU mod, but as I read on their site today, they do not support the P73 ECU. So I have a couple of questions. Should I get a chipped P28 and use that for engine management or should I go with another tuning method?

All of you input has been very helpful. Thank you guys!

soulassassin13 wrote:Right now I only Auto-X competitively. I run track days on open run days. As for my suspension I am running Tein HA's. They have treated me well thus far and going any harder than that will probably ruin its daily drive ability IMO. I do plan to stay NA on a stock bore and I just want the best bang for my buck without ruining the caRs reliability.

As far as a tune goes I was really looking at Hondata for the ECU mod, but as I read on their site today, they do not support the P73 ECU. So I have a couple of questions. Should I get a chipped P28 and use that for engine management or should I go with another tuning method?

All of you input has been very helpful. Thank you guys!

I guess Skunk2 is kinda lying about, not needing to upgrade valve train on the Pro1's

You will need to get a OBD1 vtec ecu and also get a jumper harness OBD2 to OBD1. J/W what year is OBD2a and OBD2b?????
You can't chip OBD2 ecus. Thats why you can't on the P73

If you don't run into any problems on the dyno then it shouldn't take more than 2 hrs for a good tune. Tuning your car, you might just gain a few more horse, but your overall powerband is going to be a lot better. You might even pick up 10 to 20 lbs of torque and 7 to 15 horse in the mid range.

Harness jumper -50 to 70 bucks
Hondata 200 to 600
ecu-100
tune rate is from 75 to 175 an hour. Depending on who's shop you go too.

You don't really need the s300 unless you want all those features. I'll get the s100 to save some money.

hope this helps.

soulassassin13 wrote:Okay. I would like to start this off by saying.... I probably should use the search function, but I am lazy and I love raising my post count. I am going for a NA build that is extremely reliable. So far I have purchased the HyTech big tube header, a Mugen intake, and I have the Hytech twin loop exhaust on order. I was wondering what should I buy for my next power adder based off everyone's experience?

Whoa I love your I/H/E set up. Bling Bling.

King-Tuning wrote:
You can't chip OBD2 ecus.

yes it can be done, and cheap too.

Bbasso wrote:

King-Tuning wrote:
You can't chip OBD2 ecus.

yes it can be done, and cheap too.

What? I was trying to get my p73 chipped with hondata and this local guy who is pretty well know for his chipping service, Said he can't do it.

Well some people can, some people can't...

So can you put a s300 into a p73?

King-Tuning wrote:So can you put a s300 into a p73?

I never said a S300.
Chipped yes.
I'll find out what he does, but I think it's burnable chip. Not really sure...

ATS 4.9 is really nice upgrade from what I have heard.

RedStar101 wrote:ATS 4.9 is really nice upgrade from what I have heard.

Another great suggestion.

Hands down, my personal favorite mod.

S100 ECU seems to be all you will ever need. Don't waste money on features you will never use. and as far as cams go, I have been using Toda A's, a long time and i have never had a problem with them. if you investin the Toda A cams, you will not need to upgrade your valve terrain. I have not been able to tell a difference in the idle either. skunk 2 is alright but they are mainly just popular. toda has been producing stuff for B motor's twice as long as skunk, and they have more expierence in almost every relm of the race industry. I have customers that have had the Toda A's in their car as much as 35K miles (no Problems). I have also seen a skunk 2 cam seperate in someones valve terrain and destroy their motor. Take a look at Toda I think you might change your mind.

BBASSO you are stating to buy the cheapest rotors you can. ever heard you get what you pay for? if you get some aftermarket pos valucraft or shit house brand rotor you expect it to dissipate heat properly and not warp? i highly doubt it will take the beating a good rotor will. thats just my 2cents. not saying to buy the drilled and slotted cause noone ever knows what they do they just think its best

8 years of track events for my car and NOT a single problem from the cheapest rotors I can find. That alone says alot.
Now to get everyone else who uses Autozone or rotors of the same cheap price to chime in,,, I'll bet 99% had no problems.
There might be better results from those higher priced rotors, but bang for the buck... I'm happy!

94vtec2tone wrote:BBASSO you are stating to buy the cheapest rotors you can. ever heard you get what you pay for? if you get some aftermarket pos valucraft or chit house brand rotor you expect it to dissipate heat properly and not warp? i highly doubt it will take the beating a good rotor will. thats just my 2cents. not saying to buy the drilled and slotted cause noone ever knows what they do they just think its best

Depends on what you use the car for...

For example on my track ITR I only use "white box" which equals CHEAP Legend sedan rotors (a few mm's thicker)

Rotors are a WEAR item. No need to spend money on brembo blanks, they are going to wear just as fast.

How much personal experience do you have with either "quality" vs "shit house" brands?

Dave_B wrote: No need to spend money on brembo blanks, they are going to wear just as fast.

Maybe not, but the small amount IF they do last longer can't be worth the extra money...

i run some ok rotors but the valucraft i just dont trust. anythnig from a dam near no name company means just that. to me i dont trust my braking in some pos rotor that was build dam near nowhere that ive ever heard. but if u run em more power to u