Which Cams
Which Cams
Hi,
Currently got Spoon cams but want to change for a bit more aggresive profile. Was looking at Skunk2 Stage2's. Anyone recommend or had experience with these.
$720 is the cheapest I have found so far.
Dave
Currently got Spoon cams but want to change for a bit more aggresive profile. Was looking at Skunk2 Stage2's. Anyone recommend or had experience with these.
$720 is the cheapest I have found so far.
Dave
98 UK ITR 215bhp/140.3lbft
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Re: Which Cams
why is skunk bad?
Re: Which Cams
Skunk2 cams are not bad. There's plenty of ITR guys on HondaTech making around 200whp on stage 1s. Stage 2s will definitely benefit from more compression, and you'll need to upgrade to an aftermarket valvetrain if you haven't already. Hop over there and do a search ... you'll find a TON of info on Skunk2 cams.B18C5power wrote:why is skunk bad?
2005 s2000
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haha this post combined with your sig makes you look like one ignorant ass.cvracer01 wrote:skunk is very bad VERY BAD
stick with toda stuff
but tell us, why are skunk2 cams bad? and why are rota wheels bad?
oh, and why are Toda's good?
Real reasons from your own experiences please.
-Dave
Some DC2s and a pimp Grand Marquis
Some DC2s and a pimp Grand Marquis
skunk cams tend to have alot of problems at high rpms but if I am an ignorant ass run them and find out the hard way like we did
as for rota wheels go autoX your car on 225 r tires and the will bend
toda is good ask the top race teams they will tell you the same
one last thing I have time with skunk and with the people that built cars for them and they dont use skunk cams
so HAHAHAHAhAAHAH
and run your shit parts you cheap ass f&^#er and have fun still LOOKING like a race car
as for rota wheels go autoX your car on 225 r tires and the will bend
toda is good ask the top race teams they will tell you the same
one last thing I have time with skunk and with the people that built cars for them and they dont use skunk cams
so HAHAHAHAhAAHAH
and run your shit parts you cheap ass f&^#er and have fun still LOOKING like a race car
die all of you rota luv'n @%#$s
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Older skunk2 cams broke, newer ones have not had a single problem that I've heard of and I know a lot of people who run them locally. Toda does make nice cams, never said they didn't. But, ANY cam can make power for a street car. I like Toda's non-vtec lobes in the SpecB/C though.cvracer01 wrote:skunk cams tend to have alot of problems at high rpms but if I am an ignorant ass run them and find out the hard way like we did
as for rota wheels go autoX your car on 225 r tires and the will bend
toda is good ask the top race teams they will tell you the same
one last thing I have time with skunk and with the people that built cars for them and they dont use skunk cams
so HAHAHAHAhAAHAH
and run your shit parts you cheap ass f&^#er and have fun still LOOKING like a race car
As for rotas, I've autox, tracked and curbed a set at ~35-40mph which resulted in a SLIGHT bend (still balancable). I hit a 15mph pothole in stock wheels and bent the shit out of them.
Looking for a race car? lol oooook. I keep my econo box civic chassis cars on the street for a reason.
-Dave
Some DC2s and a pimp Grand Marquis
Some DC2s and a pimp Grand Marquis
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Dave who is this guy?
and cvracer01 Do you own a ITR?
Well I have had the Rotas SS wheels for a year now that i bought use and they are very strong and never gave me a problem. I live in NYC and drive the caR about 300-400 miles aweek and trust me I hit holes and bumps daily that would break most cars and yet the Rotas stay true.
Oh and yes I do track with them and occaasionally hit the gator strips.
So as for the wheels being week- I don't think so.
and cvracer01 Do you own a ITR?
Well I have had the Rotas SS wheels for a year now that i bought use and they are very strong and never gave me a problem. I live in NYC and drive the caR about 300-400 miles aweek and trust me I hit holes and bumps daily that would break most cars and yet the Rotas stay true.
Oh and yes I do track with them and occaasionally hit the gator strips.
So as for the wheels being week- I don't think so.
swed
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Well, I've been here about an hour and I 've already learned that cvracer01 is a jack ass. As fo the original poster:
Spoon
Int-256 dur. / 11.5mm lift
Exh-245 dur. / 11.1mm lift
JUN Type 2
Int-267 dur. / 12.0mm lift
Exh-265 dur. / 10.9mm lift
Skunk2 Stage 2
Int-266 dur. / 12.3mm lift
Exh-262 dur. / 11.8mm lift
JUN Type 3
Int-265 dur. / 12.0mm lift
Exh-265 dur. / 11.5mm lift
Out of those I'd go for the JUN 2's with a slight bump in compression via an HG. But then again I don't know exactly what you're looking to get out of your motor. BTW what kind of numbers did the Spoon cams put down, I'm considering those in the distant future.
Spoon
Int-256 dur. / 11.5mm lift
Exh-245 dur. / 11.1mm lift
JUN Type 2
Int-267 dur. / 12.0mm lift
Exh-265 dur. / 10.9mm lift
Skunk2 Stage 2
Int-266 dur. / 12.3mm lift
Exh-262 dur. / 11.8mm lift
JUN Type 3
Int-265 dur. / 12.0mm lift
Exh-265 dur. / 11.5mm lift
Out of those I'd go for the JUN 2's with a slight bump in compression via an HG. But then again I don't know exactly what you're looking to get out of your motor. BTW what kind of numbers did the Spoon cams put down, I'm considering those in the distant future.
'99 EBP Civic Si 15.6 @ 87
I my Honda.
I my Honda.
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Who is he? :shrug: dunno. He hasn't returned since this thread I don't think.bbasso wrote:Dave who is this guy?
and cvracer01 Do you own a ITR?
Well I have had the Rotas SS wheels for a year now that i bought use and they are very strong and never gave me a problem. I live in NYC and drive the caR about 300-400 miles aweek and trust me I hit holes and bumps daily that would break most cars and yet the Rotas stay true.
Oh and yes I do track with them and occaasionally hit the gator strips.
So as for the wheels being week- I don't think so.
My Rota's are still going strong Though I might switch to something else soon. Thinking about autocrossing the car again and if so I'll mount some real tires on the rotas.
-Dave
Some DC2s and a pimp Grand Marquis
Some DC2s and a pimp Grand Marquis
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Not to change the topic from Skunk2 or Toda cams, though have you ever thought about RM M22's All Motor Package? $969.00 for the entire kit which includes (M22 Camshafts, Dual Valve Springs, Ti-Retainers *specs below*)... Camshafts sold alone would be $700.00 shipped.
M22 Camshafts --> 284 duration 12.1mm lift. (Hot Street NA): ($700.00)
BVTEC Dual High Pressure Springs (Speed Stable): ($180.00) 95lbs at 1.320" and 265lbs at 0.850". 12.2mm lift with stock retainers, 13.2mm with RM retainer. (recommended with M22 camshafts and up)
BVTEC Ti-RETAINER SET: ($150.00) 13.2mm lift with RM HP Springs. Lifetime warranty if used with speed stable springs.
RM M22 All-Motor Head Package: $969.00
Might be something to look into at least...
Also, if your deal for $720 falls through, I could match that price on the B16A-B18C 1.6-1.8 DOHC VTEC CAMSHAFTS - SKUNK2 STAGE II. (List price on the s2s2's are $998.82/jobber is $679.20 so I'd make barely nothing after shipping etc..)
* just a side note: If you hadn't noticed I'm a dealer for many manufactures out there so if any of you need price checks just let me know.
M22 Camshafts --> 284 duration 12.1mm lift. (Hot Street NA): ($700.00)
BVTEC Dual High Pressure Springs (Speed Stable): ($180.00) 95lbs at 1.320" and 265lbs at 0.850". 12.2mm lift with stock retainers, 13.2mm with RM retainer. (recommended with M22 camshafts and up)
BVTEC Ti-RETAINER SET: ($150.00) 13.2mm lift with RM HP Springs. Lifetime warranty if used with speed stable springs.
RM M22 All-Motor Head Package: $969.00
Might be something to look into at least...
Also, if your deal for $720 falls through, I could match that price on the B16A-B18C 1.6-1.8 DOHC VTEC CAMSHAFTS - SKUNK2 STAGE II. (List price on the s2s2's are $998.82/jobber is $679.20 so I'd make barely nothing after shipping etc..)
* just a side note: If you hadn't noticed I'm a dealer for many manufactures out there so if any of you need price checks just let me know.
SirromMotorsports.com Online Performance
1999 Honda Civic Si Coupe
Built '99 JDM ITR Swap - 221whp / 149tq
cvracer01 wrote:skunk cams tend to have alot of problems at high rpms but if I am an ignorant ass run them and find out the hard way like we did
as for rota wheels go autoX your car on 225 r tires and the will bend
toda is good ask the top race teams they will tell you the same
one last thing I have time with skunk and with the people that built cars for them and they dont use skunk cams
so HAHAHAHAhAAHAH
and run your shit parts you cheap ass f&^#er and have fun still LOOKING like a race car
i love rotas, i owned three sets,,, but if u really want me to die. then pm me and ill give u my adress. Dude their just wheels, Pop a prozac and relax
01 NBP R
04 Dodge Hemi RAM (winter)
04 Dodge Hemi RAM (winter)
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depends on your setup.
Skunk2 or Spoon Cams are great for mild setup. More agressive would be Toda or Jun if yo want to hassle of the high maintenance. Depends on you, not necessarily for more power but you're also looking for more reliability.
A lot of ppl I know get toda cams for the wrong reasons and they end up selling them b/c they dont know what they are all about.
Toda Cams are strictly for race use, spec b, and c.
Skunk2 or Spoon Cams are great for mild setup. More agressive would be Toda or Jun if yo want to hassle of the high maintenance. Depends on you, not necessarily for more power but you're also looking for more reliability.
A lot of ppl I know get toda cams for the wrong reasons and they end up selling them b/c they dont know what they are all about.
Toda Cams are strictly for race use, spec b, and c.
I currently have jun 3's and they are VERY reliable. as a matter of fact i drive the car every day to work and u cant even tell any diffrence than the car when it was bone stock!! I do have the entire jun set up with the dual valve springs, valves, retainers, camgears, and even the jun ecu for it all. It did cost a pretty penny { like 4600 with instalation and tuning} but it is all worth it for the power and dependability. My point is that even though there aggressive, they are dependible and wont affect daily driver at all if used with the right setup. And as far as maintanance there is none i have not touched the car other than changing the clutch since then and its been almost 2 yrs.
Skunk2 cams are great, i run PRO3s which are prototypes camshafts in my engine (check the sig) and i have had ZERO issues with them. Skunk2 had very minor issues YEARS ago with their camshafts, and valvesprigns, that are not as widespread as you think.
Most failures or cam breakages are from IMPROPER install from what i have seen.
Now , to the guy that started this topic:
A very mild cam that is proven over an over is the Jun3 camshaft. I personally think they are alot of money, but they do make good power, although kinda peaky.
Next i would look at a BC3+ camshaft, surprised no one mentioned it. great camshaft for fairly cheap as well
I have run M22s, and im a rocket dealer, great product, i only use his valvetrain in my car or my customers cars. M22s made great midrange power.
Skunk2 PRO1s are a great cam, and make great power on low compression motors. i have a 190whp B20vtec (10:1) and my friend has a 180whp STOCK GSR BLOCK and STOCK B16 head with Pro1s.
I would go with the PRO1s, dont pay $720, thats rediculous. PM me and ill tell you who to contact , they will beat that price by $120, for PRO1s which are a better camshaft than the old Skunk2 Stage2.
Most failures or cam breakages are from IMPROPER install from what i have seen.
Now , to the guy that started this topic:
A very mild cam that is proven over an over is the Jun3 camshaft. I personally think they are alot of money, but they do make good power, although kinda peaky.
Next i would look at a BC3+ camshaft, surprised no one mentioned it. great camshaft for fairly cheap as well
I have run M22s, and im a rocket dealer, great product, i only use his valvetrain in my car or my customers cars. M22s made great midrange power.
Skunk2 PRO1s are a great cam, and make great power on low compression motors. i have a 190whp B20vtec (10:1) and my friend has a 180whp STOCK GSR BLOCK and STOCK B16 head with Pro1s.
I would go with the PRO1s, dont pay $720, thats rediculous. PM me and ill tell you who to contact , they will beat that price by $120, for PRO1s which are a better camshaft than the old Skunk2 Stage2.
Mainstream Performance
Turbo, all motor, engine builds, Dyno tuning
230whp All Motor CRX
Turbo, all motor, engine builds, Dyno tuning
230whp All Motor CRX
not an auction, im not a dealer, just telling him where to get a good pricesilver wrote:man...this thread suddenly became a camshaft auction. anyone else wanna bid?
btw dave...what valvetrain are you running with the spoon setup, i've been looking at those cams for a while and i'm getting close to making a move on something.
Mainstream Performance
Turbo, all motor, engine builds, Dyno tuning
230whp All Motor CRX
Turbo, all motor, engine builds, Dyno tuning
230whp All Motor CRX