Block sleeving necessary for aftermarket pistons/rods?

Integra Type-R Discussion - Discuss general ITR information, technical information (including requests for technical/mechanical help/assistance), modifications, tuning, etc.
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im_new
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Block sleeving necessary for aftermarket pistons/rods?

Post by im_new »

Do you have to re-sleeve your block if you install new pistons and rods? Im talking about a boosted Type R, I heard it puts stress on the cylinder walls? I was thinking is it necessary to even get pistons/rods/re-sleeving on a car that will only run 8-10psi or if you'd get away with inline pro head gasket, block guard, and tuning. Pretty new to this forum, figured I'd post here instead of clogging the forced induction forums with similar questions over and over.
jiahanhao
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Post by jiahanhao »

you don't have to resleeve if you're using standard bore pistons, but if you're boosting, it's generally safer to get some better sleeves...
e r i c s 9 9 s i
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Post by e r i c s 9 9 s i »

stock bore pistons (81mm) then no its not neccessary to sleeve a block..

Generally in the boost department, your tuning will be the answer to when you need to sleeve your block... The sooner you have detonation, the sooner you'll need to sleeve the block. Generally speaking with a good tuner, I'd recommend sleeving a block if you plan to run more than 10psi on a daily basis...

SirromMotorsports.com Online Performance


1999 Honda Civic Si Coupe
Built '99 JDM ITR Swap - 221whp / 149tq
im_new
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Post by im_new »

e r i c s 9 9 s i wrote:stock bore pistons (81mm) then no its not neccessary to sleeve a block..

Generally in the boost department, your tuning will be the answer to when you need to sleeve your block... The sooner you have detonation, the sooner you'll need to sleeve the block. Generally speaking with a good tuner, I'd recommend sleeving a block if you plan to run more than 10psi on a daily basis...
Thanks for your help guys. I don't plan on running any more than 8 or 9 psi daily. My plan is to have the turbo on, tuned with Hondata, block guard, and head gasket with stock internals until i can afford pistons/rods, it wouldnt be long after. of course i will have the necessary fuel mods too. so i should be safe with that psi before the bottom end is touched?
e r i c s 9 9 s i
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Post by e r i c s 9 9 s i »

you should be fine with propper tuning... 6-8psi will work... Personal opinion if you plan to drive the car hard on the stock internals I'd keep the boost at 6psi... 6psi will make a huge difference with the higher compressioned motor over the stock feeling... I'd rather you stay safe (plus I'm assuming your new to boost) and not blow up the motor, and get the feel of how boost works not to mention the different sounds to listen for than bump up the boost to 8-10psi and damage something... Start low and research the shit outta running turbo setups and what sounds, etc.. to listen and feel for... (knock/detonation/stutters,etc..) There's a big difference in block pressure from say 6 psi to 10 psi so make sure you understand everything first... sorry if I sound like I'm preaching... Ask questions... then ask more... The old saying is "if you have a question, there's prolly one or more wondering the same thing."

SirromMotorsports.com Online Performance


1999 Honda Civic Si Coupe
Built '99 JDM ITR Swap - 221whp / 149tq
jiahanhao
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Joined: September 2nd, 2003, 12:05 am

Post by jiahanhao »

by the way, there's an enormous debate on block guards, so don't think you can just slap it on and be done with it...
im_new
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Post by im_new »

Alright, so it seems like I should keep it at 6psi until i get the pistons/rods. Then i'll try 9 psi and that's where i'll stay.
e r i c s 9 9 s i
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Post by e r i c s 9 9 s i »

im_new wrote:Alright, so it seems like I should keep it at 6psi until i get the pistons/rods. Then i'll try 9 psi and that's where i'll stay.
Good Idea... If you want my opinion since I've been there done that before... I wouldn't even bother using the block guard... (plus its not worth pulling the head just to add that particular part). Also, stay at 6psi or less until you can afford to upgrade to a forged pistons and connecting rod. Once you get those parts, then you'll be ok to up boost to 10-12psi and be fine on stock sleeves... I can't stress enough how important tuning is... you can NEVER tune your car to much... get your turbo kit, run stock boost then I wouldn't upgrade anything else until you have at least a hondata S200 or better unit... If you can't tune the car to run properly, then theres no point in buying all the other stuff to build the motor... Fuel and Tuning are a must for any high horsepower application...

Just some starter suggestions what you can get to be completely safe for your planned 9psi build: (also I've put them in order in which I'd buy the parts)

#1: Complete Turbo Kit: should come with everything needed including a bigger fuel pump etc.. Rev Hard Stage 2C is a AWESOME kit IMO or theres another kit thats really good that's can be found at the bottom of this link http://sirrommotorsports.com/sales.php#

#2: Upgrade the clutch (I personally have an Exedy, though ACT, Clutchmaster are also good)

#3: Hondata S200 or some reputable fuel management (AEM EMS, SpeedPro,etc.)... VAFC's work too, but a standalone is always gonna be better.

#4: Forged Pistons (I'd personally go like 9:1 no higher than 10:1 CR) and H-Beam Connecting Rods (Eagle's are cheaper and work very well)

#5: 3" exhaust once you get your kit and everything on properly... 2.5" works good, though 3" exhaust like a Thermal R&D will free up even more horsepower, etc...

SirromMotorsports.com Online Performance


1999 Honda Civic Si Coupe
Built '99 JDM ITR Swap - 221whp / 149tq
im_new
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Posts: 7
Joined: January 14th, 2004, 2:35 pm

Post by im_new »

Thanks for the help Eric. My ultimate goal is 300whp@9psi. I think it's possible.
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