AutoX setup FAQ?
AutoX setup FAQ?
We need an Autox setup FAQ for the ITR. We could break it down by the most popular classes folks seem to run in:
1) DS
2) STX
3) DSP
4) SM
The car is only realistically competitive in DS and STX at this moment, but I've seen a few folks running in the two others (even though it is futile on a national level )
I'd be willing to give out my STX setup since my car is semi-retired (or you can read the April 06 GRM issue).
Just a thought, but it might help a few folks out.
1) DS
2) STX
3) DSP
4) SM
The car is only realistically competitive in DS and STX at this moment, but I've seen a few folks running in the two others (even though it is futile on a national level )
I'd be willing to give out my STX setup since my car is semi-retired (or you can read the April 06 GRM issue).
Just a thought, but it might help a few folks out.
D-Stock (Stock Class) setup:
The Type R, as of 2006, is still one of the cars to have for stock class. It is also the fastest FWD stock autox car, ever.
The following is assuming you have a 100% bone-stock car that is in good condition. If you have high-mileage you will definitely want to freshen up everything with stock OEM parts. Please see the scca.org webpage for stock class rules.
Recommendations if you want a nationally competitive car for DS:
Tires: R-compound 225/45/15 front, 205/50/15 rear. This allows great front grip and rotation.
Wheels: Lightweight 15x6" wheels while still being legal. The best ones are the Mazda Millenia 9-spoke wheels. They only weigh 12 lbs and are cheap to buy. Not pretty, but effective.
Shocks: Stock ITR is ok, Koni OTS adjustables are good, custom-valved Koni Yellow SA's are great (SPSS valving). You really don't need DA's IMO.
Toe settings: 1/8" total toe-out in the front; zero toe in the rear.
Intake: K&N drop-in filter.
Exhaust: Lightest free-flowing exhaust you can buy/make.
Front sway bar: Some folks have been having success with the JDM DC2R front sway because it is slightly larger.
Interior: Schroth harness to keep you planted in your seat.
The 97 and 98 models are the lightest due to A/C being optional, but the 00-01 has the most HP due to the revised intake cam (also a quicker steering rack in the 00-01). So far it hasn't seemed to matter either way which year you have.
The Type R, as of 2006, is still one of the cars to have for stock class. It is also the fastest FWD stock autox car, ever.
The following is assuming you have a 100% bone-stock car that is in good condition. If you have high-mileage you will definitely want to freshen up everything with stock OEM parts. Please see the scca.org webpage for stock class rules.
Recommendations if you want a nationally competitive car for DS:
Tires: R-compound 225/45/15 front, 205/50/15 rear. This allows great front grip and rotation.
Wheels: Lightweight 15x6" wheels while still being legal. The best ones are the Mazda Millenia 9-spoke wheels. They only weigh 12 lbs and are cheap to buy. Not pretty, but effective.
Shocks: Stock ITR is ok, Koni OTS adjustables are good, custom-valved Koni Yellow SA's are great (SPSS valving). You really don't need DA's IMO.
Toe settings: 1/8" total toe-out in the front; zero toe in the rear.
Intake: K&N drop-in filter.
Exhaust: Lightest free-flowing exhaust you can buy/make.
Front sway bar: Some folks have been having success with the JDM DC2R front sway because it is slightly larger.
Interior: Schroth harness to keep you planted in your seat.
The 97 and 98 models are the lightest due to A/C being optional, but the 00-01 has the most HP due to the revised intake cam (also a quicker steering rack in the 00-01). So far it hasn't seemed to matter either way which year you have.
Great initiative.
Don't forget that the DS ITR needs 5mm front spacers to get the best track.
You will also find that high rear tire pressures will help the car rotate, assuming that you are running on A6s.
As far as a shock settings are concerned, the fronts vary from medium to full stiff, track dependant but the rears almost always run full stiff...again to help rotation.
Don't forget that the DS ITR needs 5mm front spacers to get the best track.
You will also find that high rear tire pressures will help the car rotate, assuming that you are running on A6s.
As far as a shock settings are concerned, the fronts vary from medium to full stiff, track dependant but the rears almost always run full stiff...again to help rotation.
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For DS don't forget the V710's. You'll get more runs as the Hoosiers without cording them after 35 runs at a decent pressure (38-44psi).
It's great to see the ITR back at the top of DS in Nationals!
Congrats guys!
http://scca.org/_FileLibrary/File/Combi ... ionals.pdf
It's great to see the ITR back at the top of DS in Nationals!
Congrats guys!
http://scca.org/_FileLibrary/File/Combi ... ionals.pdf
for those of you who dont know.
ITR may finally be competitive in dsp
hoosier will launch a new size next month for a6
275/35/15.
overall diameter is the same as 205/50/15. but a lot lot wider.
finally itr can be competitive against bmw in dsp.
what do u guys thk about this
http://sccaforums.com/forums/thread/225049.aspx
ITR may finally be competitive in dsp
hoosier will launch a new size next month for a6
275/35/15.
overall diameter is the same as 205/50/15. but a lot lot wider.
finally itr can be competitive against bmw in dsp.
what do u guys thk about this
http://sccaforums.com/forums/thread/225049.aspx
Does anyone have any recommendations for which off-the-shelf cat back to buy for DS? I'm looking for a low, rumbling sound... NOT a ricey or raspy sound. And of course low weight is important.Todd00 wrote:D-Stock (Stock Class) setup:
Exhaust: Lightest free-flowing exhaust you can buy/make.
The only recommendation I have received at this point is Magnaflow. Any other opinions?
thanks!
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I'm guessing you are asking for a catback because of your classing, correct?porkbone wrote:Does anyone have any recommendations for which off-the-shelf cat back to buy for DS? I'm looking for a low, rumbling sound... NOT a ricey or raspy sound. And of course low weight is important.Todd00 wrote:D-Stock (Stock Class) setup:
Exhaust: Lightest free-flowing exhaust you can buy/make.
The only recommendation I have received at this point is Magnaflow. Any other opinions?
thanks!
Unless you can switch out the stock cat on the car catbacks really won't do much in adding power, Just changing the sound. The biggest thing would be weight reduction. But the lighter you go the louder the sound.
Yes, I am running DS so I'm looking for weight reduction, primarily. I have narrowed it down to two options:Bbasso wrote:I'm guessing you are asking for a catback because of your classing, correct?
Unless you can switch out the stock cat on the car catbacks really won't do much in adding power, Just changing the sound. The biggest thing would be weight reduction. But the lighter you go the louder the sound.
- figure out a way to rig the exhaust so it's easy to completely remove it at events. I know some people did this at Nationals... loud as hell but greatest weight reduction.
- find a light catback exhaust which will provide weight reduction and possibly a beefier sound while I'm at it.
Thoughts?
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Hi,Todd00 wrote: Front sway bar: Some folks have been having success with the JDM DC2R front sway because it is slightly larger.
Does anyone know what the exact spec of the JDM front sway bar is? I've been told its 25mm, but my searches haven't been able to confirm that anywhere.
I bought what is alleged to be a JDM Type R front sway bar, but from what I can tell it's identical in diameter to the one on the car (24mm). Can't find a part number anywhere either.
Thanx.
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OK,MrHeavyfoot wrote:Hi,Todd00 wrote: Front sway bar: Some folks have been having success with the JDM DC2R front sway because it is slightly larger.
Does anyone know what the exact spec of the JDM front sway bar is? I've been told its 25mm, but my searches haven't been able to confirm that anywhere.
I bought what is alleged to be a JDM Type R front sway bar, but from what I can tell it's identical in diameter to the one on the car (24mm). Can't find a part number anywhere either.
Thanx.
In partial answer to my own question, I found one non-authoritative post on Honda-Tech that indicated that the earlier JDM ITR's came with at 24 mm front bar, and they later (98?) changed to the 25mm.
Pat
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Re:
My friend who is running v710's just won his first national event with his 98 R a few weeks ago. He usually runs 45psi but someone at the event who retired his R the year before told him to run 54 in the rear and he said that made a huge difference and credits that to his win. Said the car was really loose and rotated so much better.yeungkaho wrote:so what tire pressure should we run
with 205 v710?
225/205 A6?
Might be something to think about.
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Re: Re:
I'm guessing that was the Milwaukee NT, and it was probably one of the Borowski's that gave him that advice. I had read it elsewhere before and it seems to work pretty well with both the A6 and V710. Seems to work with the Azenis when I run streets too.00IntegraSoon2beR wrote:My friend who is running v710's just won his first national event with his 98 R a few weeks ago. He usually runs 45psi but someone at the event who retired his R the year before told him to run 54 in the rear and he said that made a huge difference and credits that to his win. Said the car was really loose and rotated so much better.yeungkaho wrote:so what tire pressure should we run
with 205 v710?
225/205 A6?
Might be something to think about.
Pat
Re: AutoX setup FAQ?
Yeah it was Dale who edged me out on day 2 for the win in Peru.
The known set up for concrete ( ie good grip) is around 55 in the rear to provoke oversteer.
Bartek and Hubert were both there to give Dale a hand with his set up.
On smooth surface and lower grip you need to be cautiou with that much air in the rear, the car can be real loose.
The known set up for concrete ( ie good grip) is around 55 in the rear to provoke oversteer.
Bartek and Hubert were both there to give Dale a hand with his set up.
On smooth surface and lower grip you need to be cautiou with that much air in the rear, the car can be real loose.