Integra Type-R Discussion - Discuss general ITR information, technical information (including requests for technical/mechanical help/assistance), modifications, tuning, etc.
I'm trying to dig up some info on the Type-R. What I'm primarily interested in is reliability/maintenance stuff. It won't be a daily driver, but I don't want to have to be wrenching on it all the time either. What's the lifespan of these engines? Trans problems? Suspension? What wears out quickly and what lasts forever? Any real mechanical differences between the years?
I live in the country and I have a garage, so I'm really not worried about theft. This will be a sunny day, blast down the backroads car... IMO the way it should be.
If maintained properly, these caRs will last as long as any other Honda. I know of several ITRs over 200k miles and have seen one over 300k miles, original motors/etc. Although, due to the high performance nature of the motor, many are rebuilt between 100-150k miles due to excessive oil burning from worn piston rings. Compression and more importantly a leakdown test will tell you how any particular motor is doing. Syncros in the tranny tend to wear as well. Many people report 3rd gear grind when shifting.
As for the body, check the typical Honda rust spots especially the rear wheelwell arches, bottoms of the doors, leading edge of hood and roof.
like doespike said, if maintained properly, they will last as long as other honda, but in my own opinion i will take ITR engine and transmission over any other Japanese engines and transmissions out there. ITR engines are well built and built to last. i used to own corolla, civic, celica, supra, sentra, prelude, accord, integra (DA), GSR, and i will give my ITR the #1 for most reliable.
I have a 98 type-r with 130k miles. Engine/tranny/drivetrain/clutch/syncrhos are extremely strong (much stronger than other models). The problem is that MANY of the Rs have been tracked which is VERY VERY hard on a car. So you have to balance some of the stronger "track-ready" components against the fact that many have some hard miles that can eliminate that advantage (or worse).
To give you an idea, I drive hard, but am very smooth with tranny/clutch. This is my original clutch, and I have no evidence that this one's got any issues. I've never had any engine work, and the car doesn't burn any oil, and still pulls extremely hard always.
Thanks for the tips thus far... sounds like a reassuring ride.
Here's another dilema--are there any definitive ways to tell between a real R and a clone? I've seen my share of 'tegs with r badges on them. I'm not a Honda expert so I don't want to buy a GSR with Type-R goods on it. I'm thinking of this as a partial investment as well.
Did the early cars really have no A/C? Not even optional A/C??
All ITRs and only ITRs have a VIN beginning JH4DC231... Check the firewall, the dash tag and the motor and tranny tags.
The easy visual clues are: ITRs do not have side moldings (though other cars sometimes remove theirs. ITRs do not have moonroofs (although RS Integras do not...and a few ITRs have had moonroofs added ).
A/C was optional in '97 and '98. It was standard from the factory for '00 and '01.
One difference that's obvious: Type-rs have 5 lug wheels, all other tegs only have 4. Note that you CAN put a 5-lug assembly on a non-type-r. But if you see 4 lugs, it's either a non-type-r, or it's a type-r that's had its assemblies stolen and replaced.
Thanks everyone for the info. I was a bit nervous about these cars simply because you have to wring the engine out so much before they start to sing. Sounds like the ITR has all the Honda reliability despite a crazy-revving motor.
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